Trailer Information
Maintaining the trailer
Galvanised trailers are coated in a galvanised finish.
This chemical process bonds very hot liquid zinc to
the trailer and its components. The zinc covering
forms a barrier that protects the steel under the zinc.
The environment in which the trailer is used, stored
and maintained determines the level of deterioration
of the zinc. In areas of high humidity, high salinity or
poor water quality, it is common for the zinc finish to
deteriorate very quickly. A high level of care is required
in these environments.
Trailers must be washed thoroughly after use and
stored in a dry, well ventilated area. Salt residues
may drop onto your trailer from the hull above while in
storage. If this occurs, wash as soon as possible.
It is normal as the zinc surface ages that a white
powder (calcium carbonate) forms on the galvanised
components. Calcium carbonate is normally evident
in the low drainage points of the trailer where salt
residues collect.
Couplings
Connect the coupling to the tow bar by placing the
coupling directly over the ball, pull up the handle
and let the coupling slide down over the ball then
release the handle letting it bottom out on the top
of the coupling. Mechanical, hydraulic and standard
couplings need to be greased every six months or
when there is no grease present on the shafts.
Safety Chains
Connect the safety chain to the vehicle with D shackle
supplied with the trailer. Do not use a padlock
between the safety chain and the car while travelling.
Jockey Wheels
When manoeuvring the trailer on either concrete,
lawn or a soft surface, the jockey wheel should be
in its wound down position. This enables easier
manoeuvring of the trailer.
Axles and Springs
It is recommended that the suspension components
be inspected at least twice yearly for any evidence
of loose u-bolts, bolts and corrosion or breakage of
the leaf springs. Painted and galvanised suspension
components should be sprayed regularly with products
such as lanolin based sprays.
Wheel Bearings
Wheel bearings should be checked at least every 90
days and before putting the boat away for any lengthy
period. They should be replaced every 6 months
depending on trailer use.
For a quick check, jack up the wheel and give it a
wobble from side to side:
If there is slack in the bearing you will need to
retighten the axle hex nut and give the wheel a spin.
If it is noisy you will need to change the bearings.
If you re-assemble the hub and there is evidence of
water, this will also render the bearings unfit for use
and require replacement.
Routinely check the wheel hubs whenever you stop for
fuel or refreshments. If the hub feels abnormally hot,
inspect the bearings before continuing. On extended
trips, carry spare wheel bearings, seals and races.
Brakes
If your trailer is braked, the braking system is a disc
brake over-ride system with either mechanical (cable
operated) or hydraulic (fluid operated) brakes.
At any sign of deterioration, mechanical brake
cables need to be replaced. To adjust the tension on
mechanical brakes ensure the boat, motor and all
equipment are on the trailer. The cable can then be
adjusted at the front pully or the adjustment bolt on
the calliper. Remember to leave enough slack in the
cable to allow for the flex in the trailer while underway.
Trailers with a gross mass over two tonnes are
fitted with hydraulic electric braking system and disc
braked on all four wheels. This system needs an
in-car electronic electric brake controller to operate
it correctly, owner supplied and fitted by an auto
electrician. The braking unit must be mounted high
over the coupling and kept clear of submersing and
high pressure cleaners at all times.
It is important to check the trailer’s brakes for
operation prior to departure on each trip.
Alloy and Steel Wheel Stud Patterns
Alloy 9”, 10”, 13” and 14” wheels - stud size:
7/16”, pitch circle diameter: 108mm (41⁄4
commonly called HT).
Tyres
Correct tyre pressures are located on the yellow
sticker at the front of your trailer and on the tyre’s
side wall. Regular checks for the correct inflation
pressure and uneven tyre wear should be carried
out. It is recommended for maximum tyre life that
the tyres be rotated on the rim every 12 months or 6
months for heavy use. It is also recommended that a
spare wheel is carried along with the tools required to
change them.
Trailer Frame Drainage
It is important that the drain holes throughout the
trailer frame are kept clear and checked on a regular
basis. This allows for drainage of any trapped water to
exit the frame.
Trailer Lighting
Lighting and wiring need a six month inspection to
ensure that there is no cracked lamp lenses, no
corrosion has got into the wiring, lamps and that all
functions of the lamps are working.
Check tail lights and turn signals work when attached
to the towing vehicle. Before backing the trailer into
the water, disconnect the light plug from the car.
This will greatly reduce the chance of blowing out the
trailer lights.
Hand Winch
Never overload your winch, use it only for the
application it has been supplied for on normal ramp
conditions. All winches are fitted with webbing straps
(the same material as seat belts). This material is
designed for higher load rating and braking strain,
compared to equivalent cable.
When you finish with the trailer remember to check
that the winch strap is dry to avoid rusting on the
winch drum. Oil the winch shafts, bushes and gears
periodically when needed.
Fitting Boats to the Trailers
The boat should sit hard on all keel rollers.
Galvanised parts should not be touching any part
of the hull and the side Teflon skid pads should be
positioned as far out from the keel as possible then
to be adjusted up firm against the hull of the boat.
If your boat doesn’t come up straight after
trailer adjustment and all skid pads and roller
measurements are correct, then check that the boat
sits horizontal in the water. Even a very slight lean will
bring the boat up to one side. Move fuel tanks, fishing
gear etc to bring the hull horizontal to the water.
The boat should be fastened to the trailer by a cable
or strap from the bow eye to the winch, plus a safety
chain or cable from the bow eye to the winch stand
or trailer tongue. The stern of the boat should be
tied down to the trailer. Tie down points are fitted to
podded models. These are to be used as tie down
points. The boat transom-to-trailer tie down straps
and winch lines are designed for normal towing
conditions on paved roadways and moderately
rough secondary roads (at slow speeds only). We
recommend the use of additional straps or rope tie
downs for securing the boat to the trailer, particularly
for longer trips or whenever you expect to encounter
rough roads. The use of a motor support bracket is
also recommended.
WARNING
Wheel nut torque on the trailer wheel and the
spare wheel should be checked at regular intervals.
Trailering Tips
HANDY TIP
Do not use your boat as a trailer.
Do not carry excess weight in the boat while
trailering or travelling on the water.
HANDY TIP
Remember to close all hatches and doors in the
boat before trailering. Store all loose equipment,
so it cannot slide, fall or blow out. Ensure the
canopy/bimini is down and secure and that all
seating inside the boat is also secured. It is
possible for seats to move while travelling –
ensure all seats are strapped down and securely
fastened.
HANDY TIP
Too much or too little tongue weight will cause
difficult steering and tow vehicle sway. Generally
5% to 10% of the boat and trailer weight should
rest on the tongue.
HANDY TIP
When reversing, engage the reverse lock on the
trailer hitch. This will lock on the trailer hitch and
stop the trailer brakes operating when reversing.
Remember to disengage the lock when the
reversing operations are complete.
20 Owner’s Manual 21
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