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HOOPING AND TENSIONS
CHAPTER 13
The tension of the fabric in your hoop is just as important as the tension on the threads of your machine.
Many a stitching problem can be traced to poor hooping. Proper hooping is one of the most important factors
in producing quality stitching.
Make sure that your fabric is straight in the hoop. Use a hooping device or mark with disappearing ink or
tailor’s chalk. Hoop the chosen backing with the garment and press the inner hoop down. The idea is to get
the fabric taut in the hoop so the material doesn’t shift, and close enough to the throat plate so the hooped
fabric doesn’t bounce against the throat plate. This is called flagging and can cause poor quality, skipped
stitches and can compromise your design registration. Sliding an extra piece of backing under the hooped
garment can often help if you experience skipped stitches as this fills any gap between the garment and the
throat plate. The needle and hook have the best change of forming a good stitch when the material is stable
and tight against the machine.
You should not stretch the fabric after hooping it. You should avoid tightening the thumbscrews of the
hoop after the hooping is completed. You could unintentionally tighten too much which can cause bruising
or breaking of the fibers. The exception would be with very heavy fabrics.
Hooping caps should be approached the same way. You want the material to be as close to the throat plate
as possible. Caps are a challenge because they are curved. You should research and find the caps that fit your
machine the best.
When hooping, pull the cap down tight against the cap hooping device, using the closure in the back.
Then fasten the hoop against the front of the cap, snug down on the seam of the crown and the bill of the
cap. Be aware that your cap frames are adjustable, so you can make them tighter or looser when required.
Closing the gap between the cap and the throat plate is most important when stitching caps. Hoop a piece
of backing with the cap even if it already has fused buckram or other backing. You will find that your design
registration and stitch quality is best when the cap is as snug and immovable as possible. Sliding another
piece of backing under the cap before you begin to stitch can help.
The tension of your machine is important to stitch quality, too. The upper and lower thread should pull
out smoothly. Be careful, especially if you wind your own bobbins, that there is not too much thread on the
bobbin. Overwound bobbins can cause stitching troubles as the thread does not come off the bobbin
smoothly and evenly.
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