16
SECONDARY AIR TUBES
The secondary air tubes must be cleaned with a wire brush. If debris remains in holes lightly tap with a wooden stick to remove.
FIREBRICK
The rebrick should be cleaned and inspected as necessary. Replace any damaged or broken brick.
AIR TUBES
The air tubes assembled in this unit are designed to provide an accurate mix of secondary air to insure the highest efciency. Any
damage or deterioration of these tubes may reduce the efciency of combustion. The air tubes are held in position by either screws
or snap pins. Locate these to either side of the tube and remove to allow the tube to be removed and replaced.
PAINT
Remember to only clean your stove with a dry soft cloth that will not harm the stoves nish.
Your stove has two types of coatings that are used in the nal nish; porcelain enamel and high temperature stove paint.
ENAMEL REPAIR-
The porcelain enamel nish will maintain its color and luster for the life of the stove. However, because it is glass it may chip if
hit with a hard or sharp object. If you experience a scratch or chip in the porcelain enamel nish, specially formulated gloss touch
up paint can be used. Contact you stove dealer to request a small bottle of this touch up paint.
1) Ensure the stove is cool.
Note: The paint may be applied to a warm stove, but the temperature of the section to be painted should be below the boiling
temperature
(200°F) to achieve a smooth nish.
2) The area should be built up with multiple thin coats.
Note: Better results are obtained if the stove is brought up to operational temperatures between coats.
HIGH TEMPERATURE STOVE PAINT REPAIR-
If the painted portions of your stove need re coating it is possible to give those pieces a brand new look by repainting it with a
1200°F heat resistant stove paint.
1) Scrub the surface to be repainted with ne sand paper.
2) Clean it properly.
3) Apply thin coats (2-3) of paint successively.
During the curing process there are changes in the paint causing it to give off an odor and some visible smoke. The fumes
are non-toxic, but can be unpleasant. Ventilate and vacate the room to avoid discomfort. Once the curing is complete there
will be no odor or smoke. After re-coating portions of your stove remember to follow the curing process as discussed in
the rst re section of this manual.
STOVE MORTAR REPAIR
Sometimes after the cement on the outside of the stove dries and hardens, it will develop some cracks. Thermal expansion, growth
and shrinkage of the cast-iron do to changing temperatures, may contribute to cracks or chips in the mortar. If you desire to make
repairs on your stove mortar contact your stove dealer to request replace mortar to perform the repair.
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS -
1) Remove any loose pieces of mortar.
2) Using masking tape or blue tape, line both sides of each seam.
3) Cut the tip of the mortar tube for a 1/8” to 3/16” bead.
4) Fill any large voids.
5) Run a continuous bead of grout the entire length of the seam.
6) Smooth the bead to the size of llet desired. Smaller is better.
7) Stop and remove any excess before it spreads beyond the tape.
Note: You may have to do this several times before you can run the full length of the seam.
8) Carefully remove the tape.
9) Using a damp (not soaked) small cell sponge or cotton cloth, run the length of the seam to atten the edge of the mortar and
remove any cement that spread beyond the llet.
10) Rinse the sponge or cloth often.
Note: You must get everything off of the enamel before it dries.
The mortar contains sodium silicate that will etch the porcelain nish if not removed promptly.
It is better to remove too much rather than to make the llet too large.
11) Allow the mortar to dry overnight before ring up the stove.
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