47
- When cutting UPVC sections, a supporting piece made out of timber
with a complementary profi le should be placed beneath the material
being cut to provide the correct level of support.
Clamping the Workpiece (fi g. A5, Z)
WARNING: A workpiece that is clamped, balanced and secure
before a cut may become unbalanced after a cut is completed.
An unbalanced load may tip the saw or anything the saw is
attached to, such as a table or workbench. When making a cut
that may become unbalanced, properly support the workpiece
and ensure the saw is firmly bolted to a stable surface. Personal
injury may occur.
WARNING: The clamp foot must remain clamped above the
base of the saw whenever the clamp is used. Always clamp the
workpiece to the base of the saw – not to any other part of the
work area. Ensure the clamp foot is not clamped on the edge of
the base of the saw.
CAUTION: Always use a work clamp to maintain control and
reduce the risk of workpiece damage and personal injury, if your
hands are required to be within 160 mm of the blade during the
cut.
Use the material clamp (39) provided with your saw. Other aids such as
spring clamps, bar clamps or C-clamps may be appropriate for certain sizes
and shapes of material. The left or right fence will slide from side to side to
aid in clamping.
TO INSTALL CLAMP
1. Insert it into the hole behind the fence. The clamp should be facing
toward the back of the mitre saw. Ensure the groove on the clamp rod
is fully inserted into the base of the mitre saw. If the groove is visible, the
clamp will not be secure.
2. Rotate the clamp 180º toward the front of the mitre saw.
3. Loosen the knob to adjust the clamp up or down, then use the fine
adjust knob to firmly clamp the workpiece.
NOTE: Place the clamp on the right side of the fence when beveling.
ALWAYS MAKE DRY RUNS (UNPOWERED) BEFORE FINISH CUTS TO
CHECK THE PATH OF THE BLADE. ENSURE THE CLAMP DOES NOT
INTERFERE WITH THE ACTION OF THE SAW OR GUARDS
Vertical straight cross cut (fi g. S1)
• Loosen the mitre knob (79) and depress the mitre latch (80).
• Engage the mitre latch at the 0° position and tighten the mitre knob.
• Place the wood to be cut against the fence (7).
• Take hold of the operation handle (10) and press in the guard release
lever (9).
• Press the trigger switch (11) to start the motor.
• Depress the head to allow the blade to cut through timber and enter
the saw kerf (81).
• After completing the cut, release the switch and wait for the saw blade
to come to a complete stop before returning the head to its upper rest
position.
Vertical mitre cross-cut (fi g. S2)
• Loosen the mitre knob (79) and depress the mitre latch (80). Move the
rotating table left or right to the required angle.
• The mitre latch will automatically locate at 15°, 22.5°, 35.3° and 45°
both left and right. If any intermediate angle is required hold the head
fi rmly and lock by tightening the mitre knob.
• Always ensure that the mitre knob is locked tightly before cutting.
• Proceed as for a vertical straight cross-cut.
WARNING: When mitring the end of a piece of wood with a
small off-cut, position the wood to ensure that the off-cut is to
the side of the blade with the greater angle to the fence:
left mitre, off-cut to the right
right mitre, off-cut to the left.
Bevel cross-cut (fi g. A2, S3)
Bevel angles can be set from 48° left to 2° right and can be cut with the
rotating table set between zero and a maximum of 45° mitre position left
or right.
• Loosen the fence clamping knob (91) and slide the upper part of the
side fence to the left as far as it will go.
• Loosen the bevel clamp knob (17) and set the bevel as desired.
• Tighten the bevel clamp knob fi rmly.
• Proceed as for a vertical straight cross-cut.
Compound mitre (fi g T1 - T4)
A compound mitre is a cut made using a mitre angle (fi g. T1) and a bevel
angle (fi g. T2) at the same time. This is the type of cut used to make
frames or boxes with slanting sides like the one shown in fi g. T3.
WARNING: If the cutting angle varies from cut to cut, check
that the bevel clamp knob and the mitre lock knob are securely
tightened. These knobs must be tightened after making any
changes in bevel or mitre.
• The chart shown below will assist you in selecting the proper bevel
and mitre settings for common compound mitre cuts. To use the chart,
select the desired angle “A” (fi g. T4) of your project and locate that
angle on the appropriate arc in the chart. From that point follow the
chart straight down to fi nd the correct bevel angle and straight across
to fi nd the correct mitre angle.
• Set your saw to the prescribed angles and make a few trial cuts.
• Practice fi tting the cut pieces together.
• Example: To make a 4 sided box with 25° exterior angles (angle “A”)
(fi g. T4), use the upper right arc. Find 25° on the arc scale. Follow the
horizontal intersecting line to either side to get the mitre angle setting
on the saw (23°). Likewise follow the vertical intersecting line to the top
or bottom to get the bevel angle setting on the saw (40°). Always try
cuts on a few scrap pieces of wood to verify the settings on the saw.
SET THIS BEVEL ANGLE ON SAW
SET THIS MITER ANGLE ON SAW
ANGLE OF SIDE OF BOX (ANGLE"A")
SQUARE BOX
6 SIDED BOX
8 SIDED BOX
Cutting base mouldings
The cutting of base moulding is performed at a 45° bevel angle.
• Always make a dry run without power before making any cuts.
• All cuts are made with the back of the moulding laying fl at on the saw.
Inside corner
- Left side
• Position the moulding with top of the moulding against the fence.
• Save the left side of the cut.
ENGLISH
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