BELOW ARE COMMON QUESTIONS ASKED
To resolve a problem, we need to identify whether it is a mechanical problem, or performance.
POOL NOT HEATING:
• In and out difference too small: Either the air humidity is too low, or the pool pump is
pushing too hard. Difference 0-4 degrees accepted. Higher humidity (80% or higher)
equates to higher difference.
• Initial heating takes time. Allow a few days for the water to heat up, leaving the pool pump
and heater on 24-7. Covering the pool can dramatically speed up heating.
• Heater is not working: There are 3 basic indicators of the heater’s operation: 1- heater
blowing cold air 2- compressor pressure goes up by about 0.5 MPa 3- heater dripping water
from the condensation lines after 10-15 minutes. If any of these conditions are observed,
the heater is working.
• Heater is not leaking water from the bottom: Heat pumps will create quite a bit
condensation, which will drain from the bottom of the heater.
• The air is too dry: Pool heat pumps are optimized for 80% humidity. If the humidity is
significantly lower, we recommend installing a set of micron misters. A set can be purchased
for about 20-30 dollars from hardware stores. These sets typically screw into a garden hose
and spray mist. Place the heads near the coils in order to increase the available moisture for
the system, boosting performance.
• Pool pump's timer setting is too short: Pool heaters are fed by the pool pump’s
circulation. A shorter pump timer will result in a shorter heating period. Please adjust the
timer settings on your pump or remove the timer when heating.
• The fan is not coming on, the pressure is not going up on the pressure gauge: When
the thermostat calls for heat, the fan will come on within 4 minutes, and within 45 seconds,
the compressor will kick in. If this doesn’t happen, and the pool water temperature is much
lower than the desired temperature, there is a mechanical issue of an error message on the
screen. Be sure that there is no error messages on the screen. This may require a phone
call to us at Fibropool Co. 1.228.313.7874
• Pool is too big for the heater, or for your climate zone: There is not much can be done,
except adding a second heater into the system.
• Air is too cold: Heat pumps absorb heat from the air. If the air too cold-below 60°F-
performance will be extremely weak. This is often a sign that the swimming season in your
area is over.
HEATER IS GIVING WATER FLOW ERROR (PL)
• Pool pump is OFF
• Pool pump is very weak
• Pool filter is dirty
• Plumbing is connected backwards, cold water is connected to top
• Bypass valve is set incorrectly, and water is not being allowed through the heater.
• Flow switch is malfunctioning.
HEATER IS VIBRATING/ SHAKING HEAVILY
• Loose or broken Fan blade
NO DISPLAY
• Digital display is damaged. This happens most frequently if the protective cover is broken or missing,
making the controller NOT weather proof.
• The incoming power is not 220 volts. Reading between L1 and L2 should be between 208-240 volts.
• Motherboard's fuse is blown.
V.23.02 FIBROPOOL USA
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