40
TS 92 18-EC
Saw through the workpiece applying a
uniform feed.
When cutting long boards or large panels
use auxiliary work supports to support the
free end.
When the workpiece is warped, place the
concave side down to prevent rocking.
The workpiece must have a straight edge to
face against the rip fence.
When cutting very thin workpieces (5mm
or less) an auxiliary fence facing should be
used. Clamp a 18mm thick plywood board
to the rip fence, make sure that it is resting
on the table top.
For bevel ripping, the operation is the same
as ripping except the bevel angle is set to
an angle other than zero degrees.
Miter cutting (see figure W1-W2)
Loosen the miter gauge lock knob (W-1),
move the miter gauge (3) to the desired
angle and lock it.
The miter gauge (3) may be used in either
of the grooves in the table.
When using the miter gauge in the left-
hand groove, hold the workpiece firmly
against the miter gauge head with your left
hand, and grip the lock knob with your right
hand.
When using the right-hand groove, hold
the workpiece with your right hand and the
lock knob with your left hand.
There are two set screws (W-2) in the miter
gauge as shown in figure W1. With the
miter gauge bar in the slot on the table
saw, insert the hex key into the set screws
(W-2). Adjusting the set screws will expand
or contract the width of the bar. Adjust
each set screw so that you can eliminate
lateral play but still have smooth sliding
action in the entire slot.
For improved placement of long
workpieces, the miter gauge can be
extended with profile rail (W-3). If required,
mount the profile rail to the miter gauge
with fastening kit.
Bevel crosscutting (see figure X)
Bevel crosscutting is the same as
crosscutting except that the wood is also
cut at a bevel angle other than 90° with the
flat side of the wood.
Adjust the blade to the desired angle.
Use the miter gauge in the groove to the
right or the left of the blade.
Repetitive cutting (see figure Y)
When making repetitive cuts, clamp a block
of wood to the rip fence using a clamp.
Slide the rip fence to a position which gives
you the length of board that you want to
repeat, and lock the rip fence in position.
Slide the workpiece along the miter gauge
until it touches the block, and then hold it
securely.
Make the cut, pull the workpiece back, and
then push the cut-off piece off the table with
a long push stick. Do not attempt to pick it
up as this could endanger your hands.
Compound miter cutting
Compound miter cutting is a combination of
miter cutting and bevel crosscutting. The cut
is made at an angle other than 90° to both the
edge and the flat side of the wood.
Adjust the miter gauge and the blade to
the desired angle and make sure that miter
gauge is locked.
Non-through cut (see figure Z)
WARNING!
Use featherboards for all non-through-cutting
operations where the protective guard cannot
be used.
Remove the smart guard system and install
the riving knife.
Adjust the bevel angle to 0°.
Set the blade to the correct depth for the
workpiece.
Depending on the shape and size of the
work- piece, use the rip fence or miter
gauge.
Install featherboards in the appropriate
position for the cut being made.
Turn on the saw and use e a push stick and/
or push blocks to move the piece into the
cut.
Once all non-through cuts are complete,
turn off the saw and reinstall the smart
guard system.
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