2. Wheels with Cam Action Systems
There are currently two types of over-centre cam wheel retention mechanisms:
Both use an over-centre cam action to clamp the bike’s wheel in place. Your bike
may have a cam-and-cup front wheel retention system and a traditional rear wheel
cam action system.
a. Adjusting the traditional cam action mechanism
The wheel hub is clamped in place by the force of the over-centre cam pushing
against one dropout and pulling the tension adjusting nut, by way of the skewer,
against the other dropout. The amount of clamping force is controlled by the
tension adjusting nut. Turning the tension adjusting nut clockwise while keeping
the cam lever from rotating increases clamping force; turning it anticlockwise
while keeping the cam lever from rotating reduces clamping force. Less than
half a turn of the tension adjusting nut can make the dierence between safe
clamping force and unsafe clamping force.
WARNING: The full force of the cam action is needed to clamp the wheel
securely. Holding the nut with one hand and turning the lever like a wing nut with
the other hand until everything is as tight as you can get it will not clamp a cam
action wheel safely in the dropouts. See also the rst WARNING in this Section
b. Adjusting the cam-and-cup mechanism
The cam-and-cup system on your front wheel will have been correctly adjusted
for your bike by your stockist. Ask them to check the adjustment every six
months. Do not use a cam-and-cup front wheel on any bike other than the one
for which it was adjusted.
3. Removing and Installing Wheels
WARNING: If your bike is equipped with a hub brake such as a rear coaster
brake, front or rear drum, band or roller brake; or if it has an internal gear rear hub,
do not attempt to remove the wheel. The removal and re-installation of most hub
brakes and internal gear hubs requires special knowledge. Incorrect removal or
assembly can result in brake or gear failure, which can cause you to lose control
and fall.
CAUTION: If your bike has a disc brake, exercise care in touching the rotor or
caliper. Disc rotors have sharp edges, and both rotor and caliper can get very
hot during use.
a. Removing a disk brake or rim brake front wheel
(1) If your bike has rim brakes, disengage the brake’s quick-release mechanism to
increase the clearance between the tyre and the brake pads (See Section 4.C
g. 11 through 15).
(2) If your bike has cam action front wheel retention, move the cam lever from the
locked or ‘Closed’ position to the ‘Open’ position (gs. 8a & b). If your bike has
through bolt or bolt-on front wheel retention, loosen the fastener(s) a few turns
counter-clockwise using an appropriate wrench, lock key or the integral lever.
(3) If your front fork has a clip-on type secondary retention device, disengage it and
go to step (4). If your front fork has an integral secondary retention device, and a
traditional cam action system (g. 8a) loosen the tension adjusting nut enough to
allow removing the wheel from the dropouts. If your front wheel uses a cam-and-
cup system, (g. 8b) squeeze the cup and cam lever together while removing
the wheel. No rotation of any part is necessary with the cam-and-cup system.
(4) You may need to tap the top of the wheel with the palm of your hand to release
the wheel from the front fork.
b. Installing a disk brake or rim brake front wheel
CAUTION: If your bike is equipped with a front disc brake, be careful not to
damage the disc, caliper or brake pads when re-inserting the disc into the caliper.
Never activate a disc brake’s control lever unless the disc is correctly inserted in
the caliper. See also Section 4.C.
(1) If your bike has cam action front wheel retention, move the cam lever so that it
curves away from the wheel (g. 8b). This is the ‘Open’ position. If your bike has
through bolt or bolt-on front wheel retention, go to the next step.
(2) With the steering fork facing forward, insert the wheel between the fork blades
so that the axle seats rmly at the top of the fork dropouts. The cam lever, if
there is one, should be on the rider’s left hand side of the bike (g. 8a & b). If
your bike has a clip-on type secondary retention device, engage it.
(3) If you have a traditional cam action mechanism: holding the cam lever in the
‘Adjust’ position with your right hand, tighten the tension adjusting nut with your
left hand until it is nger tight against the fork dropout. If you have a cam-and-
cup system: the nut and cup will have snapped into the recessed area of the
fork dropouts and no adjustment should be required.
(4) While pushing the wheel rmly to the top of the slots in the fork dropouts, and
at the same time centering the wheel rim in the fork:
(a) With a cam action system, move the cam lever upwards and swing it
into the ‘Closed’ position. The lever should now be parallel to the fork
blade and curved toward the wheel. To apply enough clamping force, you
should have to wrap your ngers around the fork blade for leverage, and
the lever should leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand.
(b) With a through-bolt or bolt-on system, tighten the fasteners to the torque
specications in Appendix D or the hub manufacturer’s instructions.
NOTE: If, on a traditional cam action system, the lever cannot be pushed all
the way to a position parallel to the fork blade, return the lever to the ‘Open’
position. Then turn the tension adjusting nut anti-clockwise a quarter turn and
try tightening the lever again.
4/ TECHNICAL INFORMATION
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