Fit
third gear wheel
(20
teeth) and top gear
wheel (18 teeth) to layshaft and fit inner race
with rollers and cage to end of the shaft.
Grease the rollers and fit shaft into box.
Set the cam plate into the second gear
position, i.e., with indexing plunger in the
groove next to the shallow neutral groove.
Fit
striking fork to mainshaft third gear
(22 teeth) and fit gear to
main
axle,
meshing
it
with the layshaft gear already in position.
Fit
the second fork to the layshaft second
gear (24 teeth) and fit the second gear with
the fork to the layshaft.
The
pegs on the
striking forks fit into the cam plate slots.
With the gearbox in the frame, little trouble
will be experienced in holding the first fork
in position.
Fit
the first fork
in
position and
hold with a screw driver or ,imilar tool whilst
the second is placed in position.
Fit
striking fork shaft and screw into the
case.
Fit
the remaining gears.
Fit
end cover (Para. 44).
Remove tubular distance piece from clutch
end of mainshaft. Remember to finally refill
with oil to the level plug. (Para. 44).
WHEELS
AND
HUBS
SS·
FRONT
WHEEL,
REMOVAL.
Place machine on centre stand. Detach brake
cable from cam lever and cable adjuster from
brake plate. Remove spindle
nut
from off-side
of
spindle. Slacken pinch bolt in near side
fork end.
Take
the weight
of
the wheel in the
left hand and withdraw the spindle by means
of
a tommy bar placed through the hole in the
head
of
the spindle.
56.
FRONT
WHEEL,
Fl'rfING.
.
Re-assemble
in
the reverse order. Insert
spindle from near side. Lock pinch bolt in
near side fork end after tightening the spindle
nut.
57.
REAR
WHEEL,
REMOVAL.
With machine on centre stand, disconnect
tail and stop lamp leads by pulling the cable
either side
of
the rubber covered snap connec-
tion behind the number plate. Remove the end
bolt from each side lifting handle, which will
enable the hinged end
of
the mudguard to be
lifted when the wheel is removed.
Disconnect speedometer driving cable.
Remove the three rubber plugs from the
end
of
the hub and with suitable box spanner,
unscrew the sleeve nuts then exposed.
Remove wheel spindle and distance piece
and draw wheel off its studs.
This method
of
wheel removal leaves the
chain and brake drum
in
position.
To
remove wheel complete with brake
drum, disconnect rear chain and remove
chainguard. Remove brake rod adjusting nut,
disconnect brake torque arm from frame
and disconnect speedometer drive. Release
23
wheel spindle
and
nut
from near side stub
axle, enabling wheel
to
be
slid along
the
adjusting slots and removed.
58.
REAR WHEEL,
REFl1.flNG.
Reverse dismantling operations.
Fit
spring
link
to
chain with closed end
of
spring facing
direction
of
travel, ensure chain adjuster
plates correctly seated
and
when all is tight-
ened, check rear chain for correct tension.
There
should
be
¾"
slack midway between
the
sprockets with the weight
of
the machine
on
the wheels. Adjust rear brake as necessary.
59.
REAR
HUB,
DISMANTLING.
Remove rear wheel (Para.62).Remove lock-
ing ring, felt washer
and
distance piece from
plain side
of
hub.
Drift
out
inner sleeve,
it
will bring with
it
the single row bearing.
Using a suitable punch, knock
out
the bear-
ing in the brake side
of
the hub, together with
the peened in washer, felt washer and
pen
steel washer.
60.
REAR
HUB,
RE-ASSEMBLING.
Pack bearing with grease, wiping off surplus.
Fit
single row bearing
to
saewed
side
of
hub, fit inner sleeve with
the
long end into
the single row bearing.
Fit
distance piece, felt washer and locking
ring and tighten.
Press double row bearing into position on
opposite side
of
hub, followed
by
the
pen
steel
washer and dished washer. Lightly rivet the
dished washer into position.
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