66.
STEERING
HEAD
ADJUSTMENT.
Place
a
wooden
block
or
box
under the
engine
cradle
of
sufficient
height
to
raise
the
front
wheel
clear
of
the ground.
Place
thumb
of left hand
on
the joint
between
the
steering
head
of
the
frame
and the
fork
head
clip.
Attempt
to
lift the
forks
with
the right
hand.
Any
movement
at the
head
races
will
be
readily felt.
To adjust,
slacken
the steering
column
locking
nut AND THE PINCH BOLT NUT
clamping
each
leg
into the
fork
crown.
Adjust
by
means
of the nut situated
on
the
steering
column
below
the
head
clip, until
all
play
is
removed,
but the
forks
are
still
free
to
rotate
on
the head
races.
Re-tighten the steering
column
locking
nut
and the pinch bolts.
67.
REMOVAL
OF
FRONT
FORKS
FROM
FRAME.
This
may
be
carried out
either
with
or
with-
out the front
wheel
and
mudguard in
position.
Remove
switch
panel
from
headlamp.
Detach steering
damper
arm
from
frame.
Detach speedometer driving and lighting
cables
from
speedometer
head.
Remove
all
cables
from
the handlebar
levers,
remove
handlebars.
Slacken
off
steering damper
completely,
remove
steering
column
locking
nut
complete
with
damper
knob
and rod.
Remove
.
oil
filler
plugs and
speedometer
panel.
Remove
head
clip
and
head
race
adjusting
nut.
Withdraw
forks
carefully
to
avoid
losing
any
head
race
balls.
Take
care
to
avoid
spilling
any
damping
oil
from
the
fork
legs.
If
any
oil
is
lost it will
be
necessary to replenish
as
instructed. (Para.
65)
68.
FITrlNG
OF
FORKS
TO
THE
FRAME.
Examine
head
races
and
balls
(17 per
race).
Races
are
pressed
into their
housings
and
may
readily
be
knocked
out
for
renewal.
Note that the
races
fitted
in the
frame
embody
a
small
hole
to
allow
the entry
of
grease.
Liberally
grease
the
track
in the
race
fitted
to the bottom
of
the steering
column
and
the
top
frame
race.
Place
17
balls
in
position
in
2S
each
and
carefully
insert the
column
through
the
frame.
Place
the
top
race
and
dust
cover
in
position
and
screw
the adjusting nut
down
the
column
until the
hexagon
is
finger
tight against
the
top
race.
Refit
the
head
clip
and
speedometer panel,
the
column
locking
nut
loosely
and
the
filler
plugs
which
should
be
tightened
up.
Adjust the head races. (Para.
66.)
Refit
all
remaining
parts
and
check
that
all
bolts
and
nuts
have
been
tightened.
69.
FORK
LEG,
DISMANTLING.
This
may
be
carried out
with
the
forks
in
position,
but
before
commencing
the
work
it
is
advisable
to
obtain
from
our
Service
Depart-
ment
a " pull through "
to
facilitate
removal
and
replacement
of
the
main
tube.
Remove
front wheel (Para.
55.)
Remove
front mudguard
Remove
oil
filler
and drain plugs from
top and bottom of fork leg and
allow
oil to
drain
off.
Slacken
the pinch bolt in the ~own lug.
Fork end,
complete
with bottom cover,
springs
and
main
tube
may
be withdrawn.
If
difficulty is encountered the " pull-
though"
already
mentioned
should be screwed
into the top of the
main
tube
which
can then
be
tapped
out
with
a
mallet.
Remove
from
the
main
tube the top leather
washer
(
this
may
have
stuck
to
the inside of
the upper
cover)
and
main
spring.
Remove
the bottom
cover,
held
to
the fork
end
by
two
screws.
Remove
leather
washer.
Remove
locking
ring
from
top of fork end.
Withdraw
fork
end
from
main
tube.
The
remaining
components
may
now
be
removed
from
the
main
tube.
70.
FORK LEG,
ASSEMBLY.
Thoroughly
clean
all
components
and
obtain any necessary renewals.
Attach
the bottom bush to the
main
tube
by
means
of
the securing nut.
Place
fork
end
in position
on
the
main
tube.
Fit shouldered bush into
fork
end
followed
by the super
oil
seal, the side with exposed
spring being uppermost.
Sci:ew
home
the
locking
ring and tighten
suffiaently to be
secure
without distorting the
case
of the super
oil
seal.
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