EasyManua.ls Logo

Orion XTREME 3752 - Advanced Troubleshooting Tips

Orion XTREME 3752
24 pages
Save Page as PDF
Print Icon
To Next Page IconTo Next Page
To Next Page IconTo Next Page
To Previous Page IconTo Previous Page
To Previous Page IconTo Previous Page
Loading...
ADVANCED
TROUBLESHOOTING
TIPS
QUICK
CHECK
FOR
TROUBLESHOOTING
CAR
AUDIO
SYSTEMS
Preface:
All
audio
systems
exhibit
noise;
however,
if
the
level
of
noise
is
low
enough,
and
the
signal
level
high
enough,
noise
should
not
be
a
problem.
This
means
that
it
is
very
important
that
the
signal
level
throughout
the
system
be
optimized
BEFORE
dealing
with
your
noise
problem.
Using
a
scope
(or
a
small
portable
amplifier)
and
a
Ikhz
test
tone,
adjust
the
system
so
that
when
the
maximum
usable
signal
level
of
the
deck
is
fed
into
the
system,
all
the
preamp
level
components
clip
at
the
same
time.
However,
we
recommend
up
to
as
much
as
a
3:1
voltage
overlap
with
the
power
amplifiers;
i.e.
an
amplifier
with
a
2
volt
minimum
sensitivity
can
be
driven
by
up
to
6
volts
of
signal.
Noise
Overview:
Car
audio
electrical
accessories
are
notorious
for
interfering
with
car
audio
systems.
The
interference
commonly
arises
from
three
areas:
1)
Power
line
noise
(5%),
which
can
be
attenuated
with
in-line
noise
filters,
2)
Inadequate
power
supply
isolation
(45%),
which
can
be
cured
with
transformer
signal
coupling,
additional
isolated
power
supplies,
or
changing
out
components,
or
3)
Inductive
interference
(45%)
-
Including
loop
area
inductive
noise
picked
up
by
the
signal
cables
-
which
can
be
remedied
by
relo¬
cating
or
rewiring
components,
rerouting
signal
cables,
or
using
twisted
cable
or
balanced
transmission
systems.
1-2-3
method
of
logical
troubleshooting
I.
M
U
T
E
THE
AMP(S).
Insert
a
muting
plug
(shorted
male
RCA
connector)
into
each
amplifier
channel.
Turn
up
the
amp
sensitivity.
Start
the
car
and
turn
on
the
headlights,
air
conditioning,
brake
lights,
etc.
Listen
for
noise
in
each
speaker.
Be
very
picky
here!
A.
If
still
noisy,
substitute
a
small
test
speaker
with
short
leads
for
the
speakers,
crossovers,
and
speaker
leads
in
the
car.
If
still
noisy,
substitute
an
isolated
power
supply
(120
VAC
to
13.8
VDC
bench
supply
or
a
small
motorcycle
battery)
for
the
car^s
alternator.
If
the
amplifier
is
noisy
with
the
test
speaker,
you
have
a
BAD
amp.
Send
it
in.
It
really
doesn^t
matter
if
it
is
quiet
or
noisy
while
running
on
the
isolated
supply
because
you
have
a
BAD
amp.
Send
it
in
for
repair
and
If
it
was
quiet
on
the
isolated
supply,
indicate
so
on
the
repair
tag.
page
41
B.
If
your
muted
amp
is
quiet,
you've
Just
joined
99.5%
of
car
audio.
Amps
are
usually
very
clean
and
do
NOT
pick
up
unwanted
noise!
Continue
on
to
Step
11.
II.
DECK
TO
AMR
Using
a
new
set
of
signal
cables,
connect
one
channel
from
the
output
of
the
deck
directly
into
one
channel
of
your
clean
amp.
Run
the
cables
outside
the
car
and
as
far
away
as
possible
from
the
metal
of
the
car.
(For
noise
purposes,
consider
a
2"
thick
cushion
of
electromagnetic
energy
emanating
from
every
metal
surface
in
the
car.)
A.
If
still
noisy,
congratulations,
in
all
probability
your
equalizer,
electronic
crossover,
DSP
whatchamacallit,
are
just
fine.
This
means
that
you
can't
get
your
deck
playing
quiet
with
your
amp,
right?
go
to
Step
Ml.
B.
If
all
is
quiet,
congratulations,
in
all
probability
your
deck
and
amplifier(s)
are
fine
-
you
obviously
have
a
problem
with
your
equalizer,
electronic
crossover,
DSP,
etc.
Skip
on
down
to
"Time
for
the
Processors."
III.
MOVE
THE
DECK.
If
you're
at
this
step,
it
is
time
to
turn
your
system
into
an
"amplified
deck"
by
temporarily
relocating
the
deck
right
ON-TOP
of
the
clean
amplifier.
Then
using
very,
very
short
signal
cables,
connect
the
output
of
the
deck
into
the
input
of
the
amp
and
test
for
noise.
Play
a
zero
bit
track
-
silence
-
and
make
sure
all
is
completely
quiet.
A.
If
still
noisy,
you're
in
a
heap
of
trouble.
We
suggest
that
you
try
another
deck
and
give
us
a
call
so
that
we
can
put
your
name
into
the
record
books.
It's
a
bad
car
audio
day
for
you.
B.
If
the
deck
is
quiet,
then
congratulations,
you're
on
your
way
to
a
successful
installation.
It
is
now
time
to
slowly,
methodically,
re
install
the
deck
back
into
its
final
position.
Test
for
noise
each
step
of
the
way.
If
the
noise
returns,
suspect
the
signal
cables,
forget
shielding
because
it
will
have
only
a
very,
minimal
effect
within
the
audio
band.
We
highly
suggest
using
twisted
pair
cables
ora
balanced
transmission
system
for
cable
induced
noise.
TIME
FOR
PROCESSORS:
By
the
end
of
step
III,
you
should
have
the
deck
playing
quietly
with
the
amp,
with
the
quiet
cables
quietly
routed.
So
it's
time
to
add
the
signal
processors
-
one
at
a
time
-
back
into
the
system.
Simply
repeat
steps
II
and
III
with
the
equalizer,
then
the
electronic
crossover,
etc.
However,
before
MOVING-THE-SIGNAL-PROCESSORS
to
the
amplifier,
we
highly
suggest
that
you
supply
power
to
the
noisy
processor
from
an
isolated
power
supply
rather
than
the
car's
+12
volt
DC
and
chassis
ground.
Make
sure
to
also
connect
the
turn-on
lead
to
the
isolated
power
supply.
If
the
processor
is
now
quiet,
then
it
is
highly
probable
that
the
component
has
inadequate
isolation.
Solutions
include,
changing
components
or
permanently
adding
an
external
isolated
power
supply.
For
more
information
on
these
topics,
contact
technical
support.
page
42

Table of Contents

Related product manuals