ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
Section E2 Page 1
SECTION E2
Gearbox and Clutch
250 Clipper
1. Removal of Gearbox
This is described in Section D. Subsection 2.
The gearbox can, however, be completely
dismantled with the engine in the frame except
for the removal of the inside operator and the
bearings in the gearbox shell.
2. To Dismantle the Gearbox.
Remove the kickstart crank, the change-gear
lever and the indicator pointer.
Disconnect the clutch cable from the lever
on the top of the box.
Remove six screws. These are different
lengths and care must be taken on re-assembling
that they are put back in their correct positions.
The gearbox outer cover can then be
removed.
Remove the change-gear mechanism by
taking off the two nuts securing it.
Remove the main shaft bearing cover which
is attached by two hexagon-headed bolts. Note
that the bottom bolt is slightly longer than the
other to provide an anchorage for the kick-start
crank return spring.
Remove three cheese-headed screws. Do not
remove the countersunk screw which secures
the pawl trip and stop inside the box.
Remove the spring box locating plunger nut
and washer.
Remove the main shaft nut. (Left Hand
Thread).
The gearbox inner cover can then be
removed.
The mainshaft can be drawn straight out if
the clutch has been removed, which, however,
should be done before taking off the gearbox
inner cover. (See Section C, Subsection 23.) The
top gear pinion will come away with the
mainshaft.
The layshaft can than be removed and the
2nd and 3rd gears drawn off the final drive
sleeve together with the operator fork.
To take out the final drive sleeve, the final
drive sprocket must be removed and this is
preferably done before removing the inner
cover. (See Section C, Subsection 29.)
3. Removal of the Ball Races
The mainshaft ball bearings can be removed
by using a stepped drift 1
5
/
16
inch-
63
/
64
- inch
diameter for the bearing in the box and 1/
1
/
8
inch-
37
/
64
inch diameter for the bearing in the
cover.
When refitting the bearings stepped drifts of
2 3/16 inches; inch diameter and 1
3
/
8
inch-
37
/
64
inch diameter must be used for the bearings in
the box and cover respectively.
Note the felt washer in the recess behind the
larger main shaft bearing and the dished
pen-steel washer between the bearing and the
felt washer. The second dished pen-steel washer
(having a smaller central hole) fits on the other
side of the main shaft bearing and is nipped
between the inner face of the bearing and the
shoulder on the final drive sleeve. See that both
of the dished pen-steel washers have their
portions facing towards the clutch and final
drive sprocket.
4. Change-Gear Mechanism
If the two nuts securing the change-gear
ratchet mechanism are slackened, the adjuster
plate can be set in the correct position. In this
position the movement of the gear lever
necessary to engage the ratchet teeth will be
approximately the same in each direction.
If the plate is incorrectly adjusted, it may be
found that, after moving from top to third or
from bottom to second gear, the outer ratchets
do not engage the teeth on the inner ratchets
correctly.
If, when fitting new parts, it is found that the
gears do not engage properly, ascertain whether
a little more movement is required or whether
there is too much movement so that the gear
slips right through second or third gear into
neutral. If more movement is required, this can
be obtained by filing the adjuster plate very
slightly at the points of contact with the pegs on
the ratchet ring.
If too much movement is already present, a
new adjuster plate giving less movement must
be fitted.
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