5. Reassembling the Gearbox
The procedure is the reverse of that given in
Subsection 2, but the following points should be
noted:-
If the main shaft top gear pinion has been
removed, make sure that it is replaced the right
way round, or third and top gears can be
engaged simultaneously.
Make sure that the trunnions on the operator
fork engage with the slots in the inside operator.
See that the main shaft is pushed right home.
(It may tighten in the felt washer inside the final
drive shaft nut.)
The layshaft top gear and kickstarter pinion
should be assembled on the layshaft and the kick
starter shaft and ratchet assembled on to it
before fitting the end cover.
Do not forget the washer on the layshaft
between the kickstarter pinion and the
kickstarter shaft.
The joint between the gearbox and the inner
cover should be made with gold size, shellac or
a similar jointing compound.
Make sure that all parts are clean before
commencing assembly. In normal climates the
recesses in the gearbox should be packed with
soft grease and the box should be filled up to the
correct level with gear oil. On no account must
heavy yellow grease be used.
6. Dismantling and Reassembly of the Clutch
The method of removing the clutch is
described in Section C, Subsection 23.
When reassembling, note that two of the
steel plates are dished and that the other(s) are
flat. The correct order of assembly is shown on
the exploded drawing.
Do not forget to replace the cush rubber or
plate retaining cover before fitting the pressure
plate.
Make sure that the distance tubes inside the
springs pass through the holes in the pressure
plate.
Tighten the spring pins as far as they will go.
If the clutch lifts unevenly it is probable that
one of the springs has taken a set, in which case
new springs should be fitted.
7. Adjustment of the Clutch Control
It is essential that there should be about
1
/
16
in. free movement in the clutch cable, to ensure
that all the spring pressure is exerted on the
plates.
There are two points of adjustment for the
clutch cable. The first is on the top of the
gearbox at the end of the horizontal lever and is
provided for taking up any stretch in the cable.
The adjustment is made by screwing the collar
in or out of the lug on the top of the gearbox.
Tighten the locknut after the adjustment has
been made.
The other point of adjustment is behind the
small cover on the front of the gearbox and is
for compensating for wear on the clutch plate
inserts. To make the adjustment, remove the
small over, slacken the locknut and turn the
central screw. Tighten the locknut after the
adjustment has been made.
The reason for the two points of adjustment
is to enable the lever and fork to be kept in their
proper positions whether the need for
adjustment is caused by plate wear or cable
stretch.
Owing to initial bedding down of the clutch
plate inserts, the clutch control may require
adjustment after the first few hundred miles
with a new machine. This point should therefore
be examined soon after delivery and adjustment
made if necessary.
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