Ungo ProSecurity
Trouble Shooting
Alarm Troubleshooting
Shock sensor doesn’t trigger the alarm:
Has the false alarm prevention circuitry system been triggered? If so, you will hear 5 chirps when disarming the
system. To check this, turn the ignition key ON and OFF to clear the false alarm prevention circuity’s memory, and then
retest the shock sensor.
Door input does not immediately trigger full alarm. Instead, chirps are heard for the first 3 seconds:
That’s how progressive two-stage door input works. This is a feature of this system. This is an instant trigger, remem-
ber, since even if the door is instantly closed again, the progressive from chirps to constant siren will continue.
Closing the door triggers the system, but opening the door does not:
Have you correctly identified the type of door switch system? This happens often when the wrong door input has been
used.
System will not passively arm until it is remotely armed and then disarmed:
Are the door inputs connected? Is the Blue wire connected to the door trigger wire in the vehicle? Either the Green or
Violet wire should be used instead.
Door input does not respond with the progressive trigger, but with the immediate full alarm:
Does the status LED indicate that the trigger was caused by the shock sensor? The shock sensor, if set to extremely
sensitivity may be detecting the door unlatching before the door switch sends its signal. Reducing the sensitivity can
solve this problem.
The Valet/Override switch doesn’t work:
Is it plugged into the correct socket?
Status LED doesn’t work:
Is it plugged into the correct socket?
Door locks operate backwards:
This unit has easily reversed lock/unlock outputs. Recheck the wire connections to see if you have these reversed.
Remote Start Troubleshooting
The remote start will not activate:
1. Check the harnesses and their connections. Make sure that the harnesses are completely plugged in the remote
start module. Make sure these are good connections to the vehicle wiring.
2. Check the voltage and fuses. Use a meter to check for voltage between the constant wires and ground wire(s). If
you have less than battery voltage, check the fuses in the system. Also make sure that the ground wire connects to a
good chassis ground point.
3. Check diagnostics. The diagnostics will tell you which shut down is active or not connected.
The remote start will activate, but the starter never engages:
1. Check for voltage on the Violet starter wire two seconds after the remote start becomes active. If there is voltage
present, skip to Step 4. If there is not voltage present, advance to Step 2.
2. Check the 30A fuses.
3. Check diagnostics. If the Gray/Black wire is detecting ground upon activation, the starter will not crank.
4. Make sure the Violet starter wire is connected on the starter side of the optional starter kill/anti-grind relay.
5. Does the vehicle have an immobilizer? Some immobilizer systems will not allow the vehicle to crank if active.
6. Check connections. The Red heavy gauge input wires on the relay satellite should have solid connections. “T-Taps”
or “Scotch Locks” are not recommended for any high current heavy gauge wiring. Also, if the vehicle has more than
one 12-volt input wire, then connect one red wire to each.
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