6.
MAKING
A
TRIAL
CUT
. ;-•
Having
completed
the
above adjustment
procedure,
it is
now
time
to
make
a
straight cross-cut
in a
piece
of
timber.
Note:
If,
when
you
were
setting
up
your
machine,
the
saw
carriage
travel
was not as
smooth
as you
would
expect,
that
probably
means there
are
pieces
of
polystyrene
packing
stuck
either
to the
arm
tracks
or to the 3
bearings
on the
yoke
assembly.
With
a
clean,
dry
cloth
wipe
both
the
tracks
and the
bearings
to
eliminate
this.
6.1
Wiring
up to the
Mains
Single-Phase 240v Models
Connect
a
standard
13
amp
rubber-covered
earthed
plug
to
the
cable attached
to the
machine
as
shown
in the
illustration. Make sure that
the
cable
clamp
is
holding
the
outer sheath
of the
cable securely before fixing
the cap to
the
plug.
Plug
in and
switch
on at the
mains socket.
Three-Phase
415v
Models
Three-phase machines should
be
wired directly into
the
mains
by a
suitably qualified electrician.
6.2
Making
the Cut
(i)
With
the
mitre
lock
engaged,
lock
the arm
clamp
handle
so
that
the
sawblade
is
positioned
for a
straight
0°
cross- cut.
(ii)
Release
the rip
lock
and
push
the saw
carriage back
so
that
the
sawblade
is
behind
the
fence
in its
correct position depending
on the
material thickness
(See
Fig. 25).
(iii)
Now,
by
turning
the
elevating handle, lower
the arm
so
that
the
sawblade almost touches
the
surface
of
the
table. Place
the
piece
of
timber against
the
front
of
the
fence.
(iv)
Gripping
the
switch handle, press
the
right-hand side
of
the
push- button switch
with
the
thumb
of the
same hand.
(v)
Once
the
sawblade
has
reached
maximum speed
(after
a
short speed build-up
of 2 or 3
seconds)
rotate
the
elevating handle
to
allow
the
blade
to
just
cut a
shallow groove
or
kerf
in the
surface
of the
table.
(vi)
Now
pull
the saw
blade
slowly towards
you so
that
it
cuts
a
vertical slot
in the
wooden fence
and
through
the
piece
of
timber,
and
then
push
the
carriage
back
to
the
column.
(vii)
Now
switch
off the
machine
by
pressing
the
left-hand
side
of the
switch.
With
a set
square check that
the cut in
your piece
of
timber
is a
true
90° in
each plane.
If it is
not, then
further adjustment
is
necessary
and
refer
back
to the
appropriate instruction.
Note:
The
control
switch
on
your
Powershop
incorporates
3
very
useful
feautures:
(1)
It
"locks
on" so
that thumb pressure does
not
need
to
be
maintained
—
useful when ripping (obviously)
but
also advantageous
for
left-hand operators.
(2)
There
is
motor overload protection built into
it
removing power from
the
motor
in the
event
of it
overheating.
(3)
It has a
"no-volt release"
so
that
if
there
is a
removal
of
power
the
switch
has to be
deliberately
re-
actuated before
the
motor
will
run.
FENCE
LOCATIONS
The
following
illustrations
show
where
the
fence must
be to
perform
each
type
of cut
according
to
thickness/width
of
material.
V--
: .
~
25*
T
v-
THICK
45
Mitre
LHai
45
Mitre
ut
-R Hi
Fig.
25
13
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