Thermostat Replacement
1. Turn the electrical supply to the water heater "OFF".
2. Remove the access door(s) and insulation pad(s).
3. Disconnect wires from thermostat(s).
4. Lift prongs off bracket and slide thermostat up and out.
5. Replace in reverse order, taking care that thermostat(s)
is flush against the tank.
6. Ensure insulation pad is in the door cavity. Replace
access door(s).
7. Turn the electrical supply to the water heater "ON".
Cathodic Protection: Anode Maintenance
Your water heater has been supplied with an anode rod that
protects the tank from corrosion. As the rod works, it slowly
dissolves over time and must be replaced. If the anode is
less than 10mm (3/8 in.) diameter, or any exposed bare
core, replace. Depending on water conditions, an anode
can last from one to ten years. Many localities treat their
water, which can have significant effect on the life of your
heater. Water conditioning such as over softening can
accelerate the rate at which the anode rod is consumed.
Rapid depletion can leave a heater unprotected causing a
premature failure. As with any water heater, it is good prac-
tice to check the anode annually to see if it needs replacing.
Anode Inspection/Change
1. Turn "OFF" the electrical supply to the tank.
2. Close the cold water supply valve.
3. Open a nearby hot water faucet served by the system
to depressurize the system.
4. Connect a hose to the drain valve and drain enough
water to empty the piping system as directed in the
“Draining the Tank” section.
5. Using a 1-1/16 in. socket, remove the anode and
inspect it. The surface may be rough, full of pits and
crevices, but this is normal. If it is less than approxi-
mately 6mm (1/4 in.) in diameter, or the inner steel core
is exposed, the anode should be replaced.
6. Apply TeflonTM tape or sealing compounds approved
for use with potable water, to the threads of the anode
and install into the tank top.
7. Open the cold water supply valve and open a nearby
hot water faucet to purge air from the tank as directed
in the “Filling the Tank” section.
8. Check for leaks, repair as required, and re-test.
9. Turn "ON" the electrical supply to the tank.
Operating a water heater without an actively working
anode rod will void any warranties, stated or implied.
Tank Clean-Out
1. A clean-out opening is provided on certain models for
periodic cleaning of the tank. Power supply must be
shut off and the heater drained before opening the
clean-out.
2. To clean heater through the clean-out opening, proceed
as follows:
a. Remove outer door from side of the casing.
b. Mark the insulation at the 12 o’clock position. Using
the opening in the outer casing as a guide cut out the
insulation covering the clean-out flange.
c. Remove the six (6) hex head screws securing the
tank clean-out plate and remove the plate.
d. Remove lime, scale or sediment using care not to
damage the glass lining of the tank.
e. Inspect the clean-out gasket. If it shows signs of
wear, a new gasket is required.
f. Install the clean-out plate. Be sure to draw plate up
tight by tightening screws securely.
g. Position the insulation so the mark is aligned, and
replace the door.
Trouble-Shooting
Follow the preceding instructions carefully and your heater
should provide long and trouble free service. If problems do
arise however, the following will be of assistance:
Not Enough Or No Hot Water
1. Make sure the electrical supply to the water heater is
"ON".
2. Check for loose or blown fuses and loose connections
in the water heater circuit.
3. If the water was too hot and is now cold, the high limit
temperature switch may have operated. To reset this,
proceed as follows:
a. Turn the electrical supply to the water heater "OFF".
b. Remove the access door then turn back the insula-
tion.
c. Reset the control by pushing in the red button marked
'RESET'.
d. Repack the insulation then replace access door.
e. Turn the electrical supply to the water heater "ON".
4. The capacity of the tank may have been exceeded by
large demands of hot water. Wait at least one hour then
check for hot water at normal hot water faucet.
5. The incoming cold water may be colder because it is
winter. If so, it will take longer to heat the water.
6. If none of the above result in adequate hot water, call a
qualified service technician.
7. If there is no HOT water, check the upper element.
8. If there is limited HOT water, check the lower element.
9. If water is LUKEWARM check for proper incoming volt-
age.
Water Leakage Is Suspected
1. Check all pipes and fittings for leaks, including the drain
valve, element(s) and relief valve.
2. See if the apparent leakage might be condensation. In
warm or humid locations, condensation can accumulate
and run from the heater and piping.
3. If leakage is from the relief valve discharge pipe, it may
represent a normal condition. Call a qualified service
technician to check the valve carefully.
4. If you cannot identify or correct the source of leakage:
a. Turn off electrical supply to he heater.
b. Close the cold water inlet valve to the heater.
c. Open a hot water faucet.
d. Contact a qualified plumber or service technician.
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