Braces: Lines attached to the ends of
yards for directing their angles and
holding them taut. Lifts are standing or
running lines for holding yards when
lowered. A
topping lift is a line holding
up the boom when the gaff is down or
absent. Vangs, port and starboard lines,
prevent a gaff from swinging sideways.
1. Rigging Options
Like the real ship, the model can be
rigged four ways. Consider these options:
Full set of sails: Tends to hide detail.
Sails furled: Here is a pleasing compro-
mise. Reality is maintained without sac-
rificing detail.
Sails furled and hoisted: This creates the
illusion of a ship in port with some sails
still drying after a day’s run. Mix furled
sails with open ones or sails half up.
Possibilities abound, so look for a pleas-
ing effect. Study paintings for ideas.
Marine artist John Stobart’s work is an
ideal reference.
No sails, gaffs lowered on the booms:
Now the ship is in port with her sails
removed for repairs. Most modelers
choose this approach, and beginners
should definitely opt for it.
2. Rigging Plans
Sheets 5 and 6 show the masts and
spars with attendant rigging. They are
drawn so every line is clear and its
belaying point known. Study them and
have a complete picture of each rig
before starting. Do this and rigging will
pr
oceed smoothly.
3. Rigging Line and
Block Sizes
Because more line diameters are shown on
the plans than pr
ovided in the kit, refer to
this guide:
Use every available diameter to enhance the
model’s scalelike appearance.
Additional
sizes ar
e commer
cially available. Some
modelers substitute the kit’s nylon
cordage with linen or cotton lines.
Blocks ar
e in scale inches, but not all ar
e
commercially available. Follow this guide:
Options: Sand a block to more closely
match the plan size or scratch build them.
4. Treating the Lines
Note: Standing rigging on Bluenose was
wir
e, but the kit substitutes thr
ead.
W
orming, Par
celing, and Serving
: Lines on
ships were wormed, parceled, and
served wher
ever chafing might occur
.
Shrouds are a prime example. Worming
inserts thin pieces of line (worms)
between the strands. Parceling winds
canvas strips saturated with tar ar
ound
the wormed part. Happily, this isn’t nec-
essary on the model. Most modelers
pr
efer not to serve (binding the wormed
and parceled area in the opposite direc-
tion with spun yarn). They use cor
dage
as is after applying a heavy coat of
beeswax. Those who want to should
serve only the largest shrouds and
stays. Use fine silk or linen thr
ead.
Avoid cotton. It’s too fuzzy.
28
Block Sizes Blocks in Kit
3/64” to 3/32”
3/32”
7/64” and 1/8” 1/8”
9/64” and 5/32”
5/32”
11/64” and 3/16” 3/16”
13/64” and 7/32” 1/4”
Lines on plan Lines in kit
Less than 0.012”dia. 0.009”
0.012” to 0.018”dia.
0.017”
0.020” to 0.027”dia. 0.030”
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