23
Eyebolts are simply wire bent into a
loop. To close the loop, touch with a lit-
tle solder or epoxy. Figure 5-11 shows
an easy way to produce scale eyebolts.
18. Rudder and Steering Wheel
Although the rudder is laser-cut, it
must be shaped according to the plans.
Cr
eate pintles and gudgeons from paper
or brass sheet (Figure 5-12). After
installing the rudder, make the tiller
from wood and strap it to the rudder
stock. The steering wheel, posts, and line
drum are Britannia. Fit these to the tiller.
Rig the wheel per the plans.
19. Cutting Stage
Make the cutting stage and its post from
wood, then rig as shown on the plans.
The stage can be presented in its low-
ered or stowed position (Figure 5-13 ).
Don’t forget to leave gaps between the
planks. This platform had to drain fast
to prevent the mates from slipping while
cutting blubber from the whale.
20. Whaleboat Davits,
Bearers (Lashing Posts),
Cranes, and Slides
Davits are laser cut. Make the lashing
posts, cranes, and slides from strip-
wood. They look like metal in photos,
but are actually oak. Longhorn cleats
and snatch blocks are britannia. Note:
Cleats are higher on the aft port and
starboard davits to clear the hurricane
house. Make the davit stays from brass
wire fitted into eyebolts (Figure 5-14).
No two davit pairs have the same spac-
ing, so double check the plans when
locating them. Since every whaleboat is
identical, their lifting eyes may not line
up with every davit set. This is no prob-
lem, because the tackle is either slightly
in or out. To achieve vertical, parallel
tackle, adjust the lifting eyes on each
boat to correspond with its davit set.
Morgan has a pair of straight davits at the
stern. Mystic Seaport installed them based
on photographic records, but has no idea
what their function was. They may be for
another whaleboat or workboat.
21. Whaleboats
Five whaleboats hang from davits and
two ar
e stowed upside down on the
amidships shelter. Inboard detail can
be omitted for the stowed boats.
These whaleboat models are
unique. Instead of the usual
Britannia casting or solid hull, Model
Shipways has laser-cut lifts for
bread-and-butter construction
(Figure 5-15). When hollowing these
hulls, the challenge is to carve them as
thin as possible without breaking
through the wood.
End tabs on each lift will assist with
alignment. The wide tab is the stern
and the narrow one the bow. Each
lift from tab end to tab end is the same
length. When assembling the lifts,
keep the tabs in line. Use only a thin
coat of white or woodworker
’s glue.
Too thick a layer will
affect the hull’s over-
all height.
Y
ou can also use cyano.
Hollow the boat with chisels
and sandpaper
. Carve or
sand the inside
corners to the
intersection of two lifts. When all is
smooth, the shape should be correct.
Next, cut off the tabs and carve or sand
Fig. 5-10 Deck Bitts
Fluke chain,
belly, and head
bitts all similar
Chamfer
Brass pin
Dowel
Fig. 5-11 Easy Eyebolts
Drill bit to suit
eye diameter
desired
T
ouch of super glue
T
wist wire-size to
suit scale
Drill hole
Fig. 5-12 Installing the Rudder
Brass
or paper
strap
Tiller
Brass or paper strip
Pin (solder, epoxy, or omit)
Pin or Glue pintle and
gudgeon
Rudder should already have
copper sheathing
Glue or solder
cut off ends
Blocks on shrouds
Fig. 5-13 Cutting in Stage
Position stowed
Wood rail
Wire
Solder
Secure inside rail
Post
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