The stern eagle and billethead are Bri-
tannia. Paint on the stars at the stern.
25. Sea Ladder and Portlights
Morgan has sea ladders (wooden steps)
on either side of the hull. Round port
-
lights and the rectangular one can be
simulated by drilling a shallow hole in
the hull, then painting it black.
26. Channels
Either fashion the channels from strip-
wood and install them now, or wait
until it’s time to make the chainplates.
Consult Stage 9 for chainplates and
channel details.
At this point, the model has a consider-
able amount of fittings on board. Take
another look, correct mistakes, and
touch up paint blemishes. Go over the
plans again. Has anything been
missed? When all is satisfactory, get
ready for the masts and spars.
Mast and Spar Construction
1. Shaping and Tapering
Masts and Spars
Masts and spars are drawn to scale on
the plans. Dowels for provided, but
r
equir
e final tapering.
A dowel, because
it is round, is difficult to taper. The best
approach is to taper the dowel from its
maximum diameter to squar
e at the
ends, then eight-sided. Sand to achieve
final rounding. This prevents a dowel
fr
om becoming an oval (Figur
e 6-1).
Although a little tricky, dowels can be
taper
ed by chucking them into an elec
-
tric drill or lathe. As the dowel turns,
taper with sandpaper.
Experienced modelers file masts and
spars from square stock, because mark-
ing tapers is easier
. Applewood is
excellent here, because its dense, twist-
ed grain is strong and resilient.
2. Building and Installing
the Masts
25
Fig. 5-16 Homemade Double-Ended Caliper
"A"
"B"
Pin or bolt at center
Gap "A" must equal gap "B" if ends do
not touch, sand one end until both
ends touch (zero gap)
Model hull
1/16" plywood
Gap is hull thickness
Fig. 5-17 Miscellaneous Boxes
W
ood or brass
T
ie down
ring
Bottom
of tank
Riveted
corners
Open top scrap hopper
Corner post
Slats
Edge molding
cover slat ends
Vegetable bin
Copper cooling tank (open top)
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