Sachs 200 User Manual

Sachs 200 type AZL-R
Engine Repair Manual
Robert Soditus

Sachs 200 Specifications

General

Brand	Sachs
Model	200
Category	Engine
Language	English

Summary

Preface

1. REAR BONNET REMOVAL

2. DISCONNECTING THE ENGINE

3. DISCONNECTING THE NEUTRAL SELECTOR CABLE

4. REMOVING THE ENGINE

5. ENGINE DISASSEMBLY

6. DYNASTART ROTOR REMOVAL

7. DRIVING SPROCKET REMOVAL

8. REMOVING CLUTCH PLATES

9. REMOVING THE CLUTCH BODY

11. SPLITTING THE CRANKCASE

12. GEAR ALIGNMENT AND SHIFTING

12.1 Selector fork movement.

Checks pawl engagement in detents on selector fork assembly during shifting.

12.2. Ratchet pawl action

13. SELECTOR FORK ADJUSTMENT

14. 2ND AND 3RD GEAR ALIGNMENT

15. GUIDE PLUG

16. MAKING SHIMS

20. REPLACING 2ND AND 3RD GEAR

17. CONNECTING ROD AND PISTON

18. GEAR INSPECTION

19. INSPECTION AND CLEANING

21. DYNASTART MAINTENANCE AND REPAIR

21.1. Test the insulation resistance of the Dynastart.

Checks Dynastart insulation resistance to ground for short circuits.

21.2. Check the amount of wear on the brushes.

Inspects brush wear and advises replacement if below specified limits.

21.3. Stator inspection.

Inspects stator windings, connections, and wiring for damage or insulation breaks.

21.4. Check to see if any of the stator field coils are loose.

Verifies stator field coil tightness by checking mounting screws.

21.5. Armature cleaning

Details armature cleaning using mineral spirits to improve resistance.

21.6. Stator cleaning.

Describes stator cleaning in mineral spirits to restore high resistance.

21.7. Rebuilding the stator.

Explains stator component cleaning, insulation, and brush-holder repair.

22. ENGINE REASSEMBLY

22.1. Remove the carrier plate assembly (5-160).

Instruction to remove the carrier plate assembly prior to engine reassembly.

22.2. Place the "guide plug" into the mainshaft hole in the crankcase.

Guides placement of a plug into the mainshaft hole to aid reassembly.

22.3. Place the 15 mainshaft rollers(2-64), spacer (refer to Figure 14, item "B"), the large loose gear (4-139) and bushing (4-140) on the guide plug.

Assembles mainshaft rollers, spacer, gear, and bushing using the guide plug.

22.4. Shift into 4th gear.

Instructs to shift transmission into 4th gear as part of reassembly.

22.5. Connect the sliding gear (4-138) and the selector bridge (5-167) to the sliding gears on the layshaft and install these parts as a unit.

Connects and installs sliding gear and selector bridge as a unit.

22.6. Install the carrier plate assembly (5-160) and position it to match the "witness marks" made in para. 12.3.

Installs carrier plate assembly, aligning it with pre-marked witness marks.

22.7. Secure the carrier plate with 3 bolts. The top bolt and the lower right bolt have split lockwashers. The lower left bolt does not have one. Be sure the stop bracket (5-154) and thestop lever (5-155) are properly installed.

Secures carrier plate with bolts, noting lockwashers and stop bracket/lever.

22.8. Put the small loose gear (4-142) on the mainshaft with bushing (4-143), thrust washer (4-142a) and additional washer (Figure 14 item "E") if needed.

Installs small loose gear, bushing, thrust washer, and optional washer onto mainshaft.

22.9. On the magneto half of the crankcase, insert 13 rollers (2-59), mainshaft output shim (4-144) (Figure 14, item "F") on the output end of the mainshaft. This assembly will be installed as a unit.

Assembles rollers and mainshaft output shim onto magneto crankcase half.

22.10. Saw the heads off some long metric bolts to use as studs to guide the magneto half of the crankcase onto the layshaft. These eleven studs will also help to hold the gasket in place during assembly. One of the bolts should have a slot sawed into the end of it so it can easily be removed with a screwdriver. See Figure 39. Place a gasket on the studs.

Prepares guide studs from bolts for aligning crankcase halves and gasket.

22.11. Place the 13 rollers on top of the layshaft shim (4-128). Putting transmission oil (non hypoid) or grease on the rollers will cause them to stick to the shim and the layshaft and there is less chance of them becoming dislodged during assembly.

Applies oil or grease to rollers on layshaft shim to aid assembly and prevent dislodging.

22.12. Make sure that the two dowels are in position at the front and rear of the crankcase halves.

Confirms correct positioning of dowels in crankcase halves before joining.

22-13. Grasp the output end of the mainshaft and the magneto half of the crankcase and start the end of the mainshaft into the loose gear. Keeping the magneto side of the crankcase level, slide it down onto the crankshaft using the studs as a guide until the bottom of the mainshaft touches the guide plug. Remove the guide plug and lower the crankcase a little more keeping it level. The rollers on the layshaft may not be perfectly aligned with the crankcase but turning the gears back and forth slightly will allow the crankcase to drop into position.

Guides magneto crankcase half onto crankshaft and mainshaft, aligning with studs and plug.

22-14. Remove the guide studs and replace them with metric screws. Metric "Allen socket-head" cap screws can be used and more torque can be applied to the screws without damaging the heads. Do not over-torque the screws because they are threaded into aluminium and it is possible to pull the threads out of the aluminium. If this happens, the holes will have to be redrilled and steel "heli-coils" inserted. The screws should be as long as possible to engage the maximum number of threads.

Replaces guide studs with metric screws, advising on torque and thread care.

22-15. Tighten the screws until the transmission halves are firmly joined. Turn the gears while tightening the screws and check for any binding or friction. If the gears do not turn freely in first and fourth gear, the shaft end spacer will have to be replaced. It is also possible that the sliding gears are rubbing on the 1st or 4th gears.

Tightens crankcase screws, checks for gear binding, and identifies spacer/rubbing issues.

22-16. Check the shaft endplay to determine if the end spacers are the correct thickness.

Verifies correct end spacer thickness by checking shaft endplay after tightening.

22-17. Shift into neutral and rotate the shafts individually to check for binding or gears rubbing. (mainshaft, layshaft and crankshaft).

Checks for binding or gear rubbing by shifting into neutral and rotating shafts.

22-18. Shift through all gears, upward and downward, while slowly turning the output shaft to check the smoothness of shifting.

Tests shifting smoothness by cycling through all gears while turning output shaft.

34. ENGINE TIMING

26. CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET (1-26)

27. CLUTCH BODY (4-105)

28. THRUST PINS

29. SERRATED CLUTCH HUB

30. CLUTCH PLATES

31. MAGNETO SYSTEM AND ARMATURE

32. CYLINDER (1-1)

32.9 Put a new gasket (1-14) on the crankcase studs.

Installs a new gasket onto crankcase studs for cylinder assembly.

32.10 With the piston rings on the piston, the cylinder can be put on. Place wooden sticks under the piston to keep it from moving and place the cylinder on the top piston ring. Carefully push the top ring into the groove and work around until the entire ring is in the groove. DO NOT BREAK THE SECOND RING. The cylinder is heavy and as the first ring snaps into place, the cylinder will drop onto the second ring and may break it.

Guides cylinder placement over piston rings, cautioning against second ring breakage.

32.11. With all three rings up in the cylinder, bolt the cylinder to the crankcase.

Bolts cylinder to crankcase with all three piston rings correctly positioned.

33. CYLINDER HEAD

35. FAN HOUSING

37. INSTALLING THE ENGINE

37.7. Connect the clutch cable. Adjust screw (2-45) so there is no slack in the cable and it is just starting to pull on the clutch lever (4-116). Attach the clutch return spring to the clutch lever.

Connects and adjusts clutch cable for proper slack and attaches return spring.

37.8. Connect the neutral select cable. (see section 3.)

Connects the neutral selector cable, referencing Section 3.

37.9. Temporarily attach the gear change lever (5-179) and shift into any gear. Rocking the car back and forth will make shifting easier. Squeeze the neutral lever on the gear shift lever in the cockpit and listen for the transmission to "click" into neutral before the lever reaches the end of its travel. Adjust (5-177a) adjusting screw to do this. If there is not enough adjustment using the screw, the end of the cable in the cockpit should be repositioned.

Tests shifting and adjusts neutral selection cable for correct engagement.

37.10. Clean the edges of the crankcase sidecover (3-75). Put gasket sealant on the edge of the side cover. Insert the six mounting bolts (different lengths) in the cover and place a new gasket over the bolts. Put gasket sealant on this side of the gasket and slide the cover onto the engine. Feed the contack breaker wires through the hole in the gasket and the cover while doing this. Pull on the wires as the cover is being positioned sothat they do not get pinched between the cover and the transmission. Tighten the cover bolts.

Installs crankcase sidecover, applying sealant and routing wires carefully.

37.11. Remove the air vent plug (2-50) and add transmission oil. USE NON-HYPOID OIL. DO NOT REMOVE OR LOOSEN THE NUT FOR PIVOT PIN (5-169).

Adds non-hypoid transmission oil, with specific cautions on plugs and nuts.

38. TELEFLEX ADJUSTMENT

39. REAR BONNET