• It is generally agreed that wax disturbs the boundary layer of the laminar flow. The
same beading action you witness on the decks, is disruptive to the way the boat moves
through the water. How much this slows you down, is not well known.
• Waxing takes time. In truth you’ll probably spend more time cleaning a naked hull of
contaminants, than you would cleaning and waxing a hull.
LUBRICATION
The only part that requires lubrication on your boat are the wheel bearings, (they are sealed to
keep the grease that protects the bearing from escaping). The bearings can be repacked in
grease, but in general it is much easier to replace them.
Tip: Using WD40 may have a short term benefit of stopping squeaks, and getting the bearings
moving a bit better, but in the long run it degrades the grease and attracts dirt.
SALT WATER ROWING
It’s no secret that rowing on salt water can be incredibly hard on equipment, but many of us
have no choice about the type of water we row on. We have taken great strides to ensure that
your equipment stands up to the conditions, and with a bit of maintenance it will. While it
would be ideal to strip the entire boat down, and wash each part individually after every row,
it is entirely unrealistic. That’s why every piece of aluminium on the boat has been hard
anodized, and every bit of steel is stainless. We do recommend washing the boat, or at least
hosing it down after every practice.
Rowing on salt water provides another challenge where these dissimilar metals meet. It’s a
process called electrolysis, and has proven to degrade even anodized aluminium. We are
constantly looking for better ways to protect your investment, and are running tests with new
products on an ongoing basis. Our current recommendation to prevent or reduce the effect of
electrolysis, is Boeshield t-9, developed by Boeing. If you have trouble finding it at a local
retailer, please try:
http://www.boeshieldcanada.com/OR10.php (Canada)
http://www.boeshield.com/index.htm (U.S.)
Applying Boeshield to the stainless fastener, where ever it meets hard anodized aluminum
every three months will substantially increase the service life of you parts. The areas where
stainless meets the anodized aluminum are the following:
• Slide bolts - loosen the slide wing nuts and remove the slides, slide the bolts to the
middle and remove them through the hole, clean the bolt and apply boeshield.
• Toe-bar, and height adjustment bolts (and steering bolt) - leaving the wing nuts
fastened to maintain angle mark height, remove clean and apply.
• Bottom channel bolt - bolt and flat washer.
• Rigger bolts (backstay & top) - remove clean apply bolt and top flat washer.
• Bearings – remove and apply to: wheel bolt, bearing (both sides), flat washer (try to
keep the boesheild off the plastic wheel).
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