Ripping: general practice
Traditionally,
cutting
is
done with the fence on the right
side, so the text and illustrations show
that
position.
If
you prefer to work with the fence on the left,
reverse the arrangement.
Never stand in line with the blade. Stand
to
the side
of
the blade opposite the fence. Push the work along
the fence applying side and forward pressure, holding
the workpiece with both hands initially. Apply for-
ward pressure with right hand and sideways pressure
(towards the fence) with your left hand.
Maintain a balanced stance
so
your feet won't slip, pitching
you into the blade.
As
you near completion, continue to push past the blade
with your
right
hand and move your left hand out
of
the
way.
On
narrow cuts,
get
in the habit
of
hook-
ing one or two fingers
of
your
right
hand over the
fence. Do not lean over the blade.
Your left hand should nor push the waste past the blade.
That
can cause pinch and kickback. A carch table at
the back
of
the saw will support long boards when
ripping and crosscutting large panes so they won't fall
off the back
of
the saw and damage your work or cre-
ate
an
unsafe condition.
Crosscutting:
Onec your boards are
cut
so
there are two parallel long
sides and two flat faces, you
must
usually
cut
one end
square and true and the other end to length. Start by
using the
mitre
guide
for
small pieces, or a cut-off
sled riding in the mitre slot.
The
sled can be open
ended over one mitre slot or large, covering the entire
table. Sleds are
far
more accurate then mitre guides
because the fence are large and will not allow the
work
ro
twist or pivot. Accuracy
is
assured
if
you
rake the
time
to
build
an
accurate sled. Make several
sleds ar once
to
do 45°
as
well
as
90° cuts
Page 8
To Next Page
Loading...