General Description
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With the inclusion of wave breaking not only the spatial variation of e.g. the
significant wave height, maximum wave height and wave setup on the beach
can be computed, but also details like the generation and release of low-fre-
quency energy due to primary wave transformation can be computed. This is
of significant importance for harbour resonance (seiching) and coastal pro-
cesses.
Figure 2.6 Transformation of irregular non-linear waves over a natural barred
beach profile (upper panel). Offshore (left) and onshore (right) fre-
quency wave spectra (lower panels). The spectra are computed using
the WSWAT Linear Spectral Wave Analysis module included in MIKE
Zero
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