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MOUNTAIN BIKE AND MOUNTAIN BIKE-PEDELEC | ORIGINAL OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS 2017ORIGINAL OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS 2017 | MOUNTAIN BIKE AND MOUNTAIN BIKE-PEDELEC
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CAUTION!
A
Do not ride your bicycle, if the suspension fork bottoms out. This could
damage the suspension fork itself as well as the frame. The spring rate
should always be adjusted to the weight of the rider and the luggage as well as
to the riding conditions.
NOTE!
I
In case of inquiries, contact your SCOTT dealer or follow the respective in-
structions in the manual of the suspension fork manufacturer on this SCOTT
info CD.
Lockout
When taking long uphill rides involving hard pedalling out of the saddle, a
suspension fork is typically bobbing. It is advisable to lock the damping, if the
suspension fork has a lockout mechanism (d+e). For downhill rides on uneven
ground the lockout mechanism must be open stringently.
Many SCOTT hardtail bikes have a lockout lever at the handlebars.
Some SCOTT full-suspension bikes are fitted with the TWINLOC system. The
TWINLOC offers three setting options (f):
1. Climb mode: The shock is (nearly) locked. This setting allows you comforta-
ble climbing on firm grounds, e.g. tarred roads, without loosing any power into
suspension.
Simultaneously, a blow-off system prevents the shock from being damaged in
case the rider did not open the system while crossing obstacles.
2. Traction/Riding mode: The compression speed of the shock will be reduced
giving a firmer pedalling platform. This results in climbing without “bobbing”
and offers still optimum traction of the rear wheel.
For ride: by adding a platform to the compression damping system the shock
will not bounce while standing on the pedals.
3. Descent mode: In this mode both suspension elements (suspension fork and
rear shock) are open, i.e. the entire suspension travel is at your disposal.
A weaker damping ensures a good responsive performance, leads however to
an excessive compression of the suspension fork when riding at high speed over
obstacles, e.g. steps, or to a bouncing when riding out of the saddle under cer-
tain conditions. A too strong damping hardens the suspension and thus reduces
the riding comfort.
If you have set the sag correctly, as above described, and the fork works prop-
erly during a normal test ride, but bottoms out in an extreme situation, you can
increase the compression damping.
Proceed click by click as a too strong compression damping prevents the
suspension fork from using the complete suspension travel. The setting of the
compression damping (a) can be a long process which has to be carried out
consciously and always in small steps.
Start with the lowest step, i.e. the adjusting knob must be turned fully towards
the marking “-” (b).
Always check a changed adjustment during a test ride in the terrain.
If you do not trust the setting of the damping or if problems occur with it, con-
tact your SCOTT dealer or follow the corresponding instructions in the manual
of the suspension fork manufacturer, which you can find on this SCOTT info CD.
DANGER!
G
Do not turn any screws by using tools in the vague hope of adjusting them
somehow. You could be loosening the fastening mechanism, thus provoking
an accident. Normally, the adjustment devices are operated with the fingers and
are marked by all manufacturers with a scale or with “+” (for stronger damping/
harder suspension) and “-” signs (c).
DANGER!
G
A too strong damping (rebound damping) of the fork can result in the fact
that the fork no longer extends when riding over a quick series of obstacles.
Risk of falling!
DANGER!
G
When mounting a new front tyre, make sure there is enough clearance
between tyre and fork crown as the fork compresses entirely. If necessary,
deflate the suspension fork completely and press the handlebars forcefully
downward to check this. The front wheel can get jammed. Risk of falling!
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