13]
DOUBLE-NEEDLE, FOUR THREADS
No.
Qoth
Thread
Needle size
Differential ratio
1
Knit underwear
Cotton
#60/2
# 9
1
--1.5
material
Double-needle
2
Thin knitwork
Synthetic
#60
#11
1--2
four threads
3
Bulky material
Needle: Synthetic
#60
#14
2--3
Looper: Woolen
4
Broadcloth Cotton #SO
#11
o.s
--1
Mock safety
#14
5
Jersey
Polyester
#50
1.5--2
No.
Left needle Right needle
Over looper Under looper
thread tension thread tension
thread tension thread tension
1
60-SO
30--
51)
6
--1S
s
"'20
Double-needle
40--60
2S-4S
4-16
6-1S
four threads
2
3
70--90
35-SS
3--10
s
--15
4
so
--so
4S
--70
s
--1S
8--1S
Mock safety
s
so"'
70
2S-SO
10--20
8--18
Note on Item I:
Cotton threads in the range
of
#60/2 to #70/2
are
weak
so
that the
thread tension must be reduced
as
much
as
possible. A poor quality
thread tends
to
break. In that case, do not tighten the needle thread
tension but adjust the positions
of
the thread take-up and thread guide
if
the thread tension must be increased.
Note on Item
2:
About the same tension may be used for
sewing
with synthetic and
cotton threads.
Note on Item 3:
Make
the same adjustment
as
mentioned in Item 5 for three threads.
Note on Item
4:
If
the over looper thread tension
is
too small, double-needle four-thread
stitches may sometimes be made. In such a case, raise the over looper
thread take-up (R) to decrease thread delivery.
Note on Item 5:
When sewing jersey with chemical thread, it may break due to heat.
~
DOUBLE-NEEDLE, FIVE THREADS (Safety
Stitches
Only)
No.
Cloth
Thread
Needle size
Differential ratio
1
Broad cloth
Cotton
#so
#11
o.s
--1
2
Broad cloth
Polyester
#80
"
"
3
Jersey
Needle: Polyester #SO
#14
1.5-2
Looper: Wooly nylon
4
Gaberdine
Cotton
#so
#16
1
s
Denim
Cotton
#so
#21
"
No.
Double chain stitch
Double chain stitch
Over needle
Over looper
needle thread tension
looper thread tension
thread tension
thread tension
1
20--
50
S-IS
40-
90
10--
2S
2
1S--
4S
5-10
30-
so
S--20
3
2S-
60
s-20
2S,...,
so
s-1s
4
35-
60
6"'
1S
so
--100
7-20
s
so--
uo
10-20
70-1SO
10
--2S
-31-
Stitch length
2--2.5
"
2.~--
2.8•
2
"'2.5
2.5-3
Raise
Stitch length
2-2.5
"
2.2-2.8
2.S
"'3
"
Under looper
thread tension
s
--20
s
-1S
S--20
10-30
1S
--30