3.
240 VAC is Getting to the Heating
Elements, but Still No Heat.
a.
Check for continuity through the heating elements. If
no continuity, replace the heating element with the
included spare or order a replacement from Dairy
Tech, Inc.
HEATING ELEMENTS: The heating elements are
replaced when necessary by removing the back panel
after disconnecting all power to the unit. Drain the
tank of water. Pull the terminal boots back from the
heater terminals and disconnect the ring terminals.
Loosen the 2 nuts that attach each heating element to
be removed. The elements must be removed in order
from top to bottom. Use caution when removing to
avoid dropping or striking the heaters against each
other. Remove the top heater by sliding it forward
into the tank and lifting it out of the unit. The middle
and bottom heaters may then be removed as needed.
Replace the element in the opposite order of their
removal. DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN THE HEATER
ELEMENTS. Make sure all 6 round gaskets are in place
against the inside surface of the tank.
4.
Matilda® Does Not Get to Temperature, but
the Heater is Hot or Heats Slowly.
a.
There are two (2) or three (3) active heating elements
in each unit depending on the model. Check
resistance on each element with the power off to
determine if one needs replacing.
b.
Make certain that the agitator motor is turning during
the cycle. It should be on during heating, timing, and
cooling cycles. Replace if it is not working.
c.
Cold water is coming into the system. If there is a leak
in the system, such as a leaking cold-water solenoid
valve, the heater cannot keep up and the colostrum
will not heat properly. Repair the leak or replace the
valve.
5.
Water is Leaking from Under the Unit
a.
With power disconnected from the unit, open the
back panel and check the heating elements, over-
temperature switch, thermocouple, and water valve
for leaks. Also check the thermocouple in the bottom
of the tank and for damage to the tank itself.
6.
Cooling Solenoid Valve Will Not Stop
Running
a.
Check the power supply to the valve. IF there is power
keeping it open during unwanted times, the control
could be malfunctioning, especially if the cold output
LED # is on at the wrong times. Replace Control.
b.
It is possible that some debris has held the solenoid
open. Disconnect power and remove tubing from
valve inside cabinet. Blow into the supply hose to
eject any debris from the valve or force water
backward through the valve. The valve may need to
be replaced if it is powering properly but not closing
when the solenoid closes.
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