7
English
When smoothest cuts are desired for molding and other
precision work, a sharp (60 - 80 tooth carbide) blade and a
slower, even cutting rate will produce the desired results.
Ensure that material does not creep while cutting. Clamp it
securely in place. Always let the blade come to a full stop
before raising arm.
If small fibers of wood still split out at the rear of the
workpiece, apply a piece of masking tape on the wood
where the cut will be made. Saw through the tape and
carefully remove tape when the cut is finished.
For varied cutting applications, refer to the list of
recommended saw blades for your saw and select the one
that best fits your needs. (Page 3)
BODY AND HAND POSITION (FIG. 15)
Proper positioning of your body and hands when operating
the miter saw will make cutting easier, more accurate and
safer. Never place hands near cutting area. Place hands
no closer than 6" from the blade. Hold the workpiece tightly
to the table and the fence when cutting. Keep hands in
position until the trigger has been released and the blade
has completely stopped. ALWAYS MAKE DRY RUNS
(UNPOWERED) BEFORE FINISH CUTS SO THAT YOU
CAN CHECK THE PATH OF THE BLADE. DO NOT
CROSS HANDS, AS SHOWN IN FIGURE 15A.
Keep both feet firmly on the floor and maintain proper
balance. As you move the miter arm left and right, follow it
and stand slightly to the side of the saw blade. Sight
through the guard louvers when following a pencil line.
CLAMPING THE WORKPIECE
Turn Off and Unplug Saw
If you cannot secure the workpiece on the table and
against the fence by hand, (irregular shape, etc.) or your
hand would be less than 6” from the blade, a clamp or
other fixture should be used.
For best results use the DW7082 clamp made for use with
your saw. It is available through your local retailer or
D
EWALT service center at extra cost.
Other aids such as spring clamps, bar clamps or C-clamps
may be appropriate for certain sizes and shapes of
material. Use care in selecting and placing these clamps.
Take time to make a dry run before making the cut. The left
fence will slide from side to side to aid in clamping.
SUPPORT FOR LONG PIECES
Turn Off and Unplug Saw
ALWAYS SUPPORT LONG PIECES
Support long workpieces using any convenient means
such as sawhorses or similar devices to keep the ends
from dropping. For best results, use the DW7080
extension work support to extend the table width of your
saw. Also available to help hold long workpieces is the
DW730 Miter Saw Workstation, available for purchase at
your dealer.
CUTTING PICTURE FRAMES, SHADOW BOXES AND
OTHER FOUR SIDED PROJECTS
To best understand how to make the items listed here,
we suggest that you try a few simple projects using scrap
wood until you develop a “FEEL” for your saw.
Your saw is the perfect tool for mitering corners like the
one shown in Figure 16. Sketch A in Figure 16 shows a
joint made by using the bevel adjustment to bevel the
edges of the two boards at 45 degrees each to produce a
90 degree corner. For this joint the miter arm was locked
in the zero position and the bevel adjustment was locked
at 45 degrees. The wood was positioned with the broad
flat side against the table and the narrow edge against
the fence. The cut could also be made by mitering right
and left with the broad surface against the fence.
CUTTING TRIM MOLDING AND OTHER FRAMES
Sketch B in Figure 16 shows a joint made by setting the
miter arm at 45 degrees to miter the two boards to form a
90 degree corner. To make this type of joint, set the bevel
adjustment to zero and the miter arm to 45 degrees.
Once again, position the wood with the broad flat side on
the table and the narrow edge against the fence.
The two sketches in Figure 16 are for four sided objects
only.
As the number of sides changes, so do the miter and
bevel angles. The chart below gives the proper angles for
a variety of shapes. The chart assumes that all sides are
of equal length. For a shape that is not shown in the
chart, use the following formula. 180 degrees divided by
the number of sides equals the miter or bevel angle.
- EXAMPLES -
NO. SIDES ANGLE MITER OR BEVEL
4 45°
5 36°
6 30°
7 25.7°
8 22.5°
9 20°
10 18°
CUTTING COMPOUND MITERS
A compound miter is a cut made using a miter angle and
a bevel angle at the same time. This is the type of cut used
to make frames or boxes with slanting sides like the one
shown in Figure 17.
NOTE: If the cutting angle varies from cut to cut, check that
the bevel clamp knob and the miter lock knob are securely
tightened. These knobs must be tightened after making any
changes in bevel or miter.
The chart shown on page 13 will assist you in selecting the
proper bevel and miter settings for common compound
miter cuts. To use the chart, select the desired angle “A”
FIG. 11B
STOP SCREW
LOCK NUT
FIG. 12
BEVEL STOP
FIG. 11A
BEVEL
HOUSING
BEVEL
POINTER
SCREW
BEVEL
SCALE
To Next Page
Loading...
Need help?
General
