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EG&G 113 - Troubleshooting; Procedure; Printed Circuit Soldering

EG&G 113
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32
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(
SECTION
VI
TROUBLESHOOTING
6.1
INTRODUCTION
Although
the
Model
113
is
a reliable
instrument,
occasional
troubleshooting
may
be
necessary;
the
procedures
outlined
in
this
section
will be helpful.
Once
the
problem
is
isolated
to
a specific
circuit
or
component,
or
before
attempting
any
troubleshooting,
the
user
should
contact
Princeton
Appl ied Research
Corporation
for
advice
on
the
relative
merits
of
repairing
the
instrument
himself, as
opposed
to
returning
it
to
the
factory
for
repair.
In
any
case, if
the
instrument
is
still in
WARRANTY,
it
is
particularly
important
that
an
authorized
factory
representative be
contacted
prior
to
attempting
a field repair,
as
failure
to
do
so
could
inval
idate
the
Warranty.
6.2 PROCEDURE
To
speed
the
troubleshooting
process,
try
to
determine
any
external
causes
of
the
trouble,
and ascertain
the
symptoms
when
the
amplifier
is
properly
connected
and
tested.
The
set-up
and
procedure
given
in
Initial Checks,
Section
II, will
be helpful in
determining
the
symptoms.
Section
IV,
the
Circuit
Description,
together
with
th.e
layout
diagrams and
schematics
(Section
VII),
should
provide
sufficient
infor-
mation
for
isolating
the
trouble.
After
checking
the
power
supply
Voltages,
the
two
ampl ifier stages
may
be
checked
by
comparing
output
signals against
input
signals.
After
signal
checks
isolate
the
trouble
to
one
of
the
amplifier
stages
or
to
the
overload
circuit,
voltage
and
resistance
checks
can
then
specifically
pinpoint
the
trouble.
When
doing
resistance
checks,
it
is
sometimes
possible
to
locate
a
bad
transistor
by
checking
the
diode
action
of
the
base and
collector
junctions.
Wh
ile
doing
voltage
checks,
it
is
usefu I
to
remember
that
the
base-to-emitter
voltage
of
a
forward
biased silicon
transistor
(or
diode
junction)
is
roughly
0.6
V,
and
that
the
collector
voltage
of
a
saturated
transistor
is
less
than
the
base voltage
(measured
with
respect
to
the
emitter).
When
troubleshooting
and
replacement
of
bad
components
is
completed,
it will
probably
be necessary
to
adjust
some
of
the
amplifier
trim-components.
Section
V,
the
Align-
ment
Procedure,
should
be
consulted.
6.3 PRINTED CIRCUIT SOLDERING
If
any
components
are removed
from
a
printed-circuit
board
for
inspection
or
replacement,
be especially careful
not
to
damage
the
foil.
To
remove
components
cleanly
requires
considerable
care_
Either
one
of
two
methods
can
be used
to
remove
the
solder
from
a pad.
One
entails
the
use
of
a
vacuum
bulb
operated
solder
remover,
and
the
other
the
use
of
a
"wick".
Both
methods
give
good
results.
A brief
description
of
each
follows.
METHOD
#1
Removing
solder
by
means
of
a
solder-remover
is
a simple
process.
The
required
equipment
includes a
vacuum
bulb
VI-'
operated
solder
remover
(UNGAR
type
SOLDER-OFF
#7805
recommended)
and
a
good
soldering
iron
of
mod-
erate
power
(WALL
type
14HDG40120
with
type
W14KS
tip).
The
solder
must
be removed
from
the
pad
on
the
side
opposite
the
component.
To
remove a
component,
proceed
as
follows:
Heat
the
pad
on
the
side
opposite
the
component.
As
soon
as
the
solder
flows, use
the
solder
remover
to
remove
the
solder
from
the
pad
and
hole.
Take
care
not
to
heat
any
longer
than
necessary.
After
the
solder
has
been
removed, pull
the
lead
through
the
hole
from
the
component
side
of
the
board,
using
suitable
long-nose
pliers. If
the
lead
is
not
free,
continue
to
apply
heat
while
pulling
the
lead
from
the
hole.
A
component
with
leads
which
cannot
be removed
one
at
a
time
must
have all
of
its
leads free in
the
holes
simultaneously;
if it
is
not
possible
to
free
all
of
the
leads in
the
holes,
the
component
can be
removed
by
apply ing
heat
to
one
of
the
leads and
"rocking"
the
component
to
pull
the
lead
through
the
hole
as
far as possible,
and
successively
repeating
this
for
each
of
the
unfree
leads until
the
component
is
free
from
the
board.
After
the
component
has been
removed,
use
the
solder
remover
to
completely
clear
all
solder
from
the
holes.
METHOD
#2
Wicking
is
a
method
which
uses a length
of
stranded
wire
or
shielding braid
as
a
wick
to
draw
up
the
molten
solder
from
the
pad.
Exceptionally
clean
work
can
be achieved by
this
method.
Equipment
required
includes a
good
soldering
iron
(that
recommended
in
Method
#1
is
excellent),
a
supply
of
stranded
braid,
and
some
rosin base
soldering
flux
(ALPHA
346-35
or
equivalent). Proceed
as
follows: Dip a few
inches
of
stranded
wire
or
shielding braid
into
the
rosin-base
soldering flux.
Then
place
the
wire
or
braid
on
top
of
the
joint
to
be
unsoldered,
allowing
some
of
the
flux
to
flow
over
the
joint.
NOTE:
Under
no
circumstances
use an
acid-base flux.
As
shown
in
Figure
VI-l,
place a
hot
soldering
iron
on
top
of
the
stranded
wire
directly
above
the
joint
to
be
unsoldered.
Within
a
few
seconds,
most
of
the
solder
in
the
joint
will
melt
and
flow
quickly
up
the
wick,
leaving
the
joi
nt
area free
of
solder.
-===================~/
Figure
VI-l.
SOLDER
REMOVAL
BY
WICKING

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