SECTION II
Getting Ready to Sew
Selecting the Correct Needle and Thread
There are many kinds of fabrics, threads and
needles. It is important to use the correct ones to-
gether.
Always purchase good quality thread. It should be
strong, smooth and even in thickness. Use the same
thread for needle and bobbin. Always test thread and
needle size on a scrap piece of fabric.
In general, fine threads (the larger the number, the
finer the thread) and needles (the smaller the num-
ber, the finer the needle) are used for sewing light-
weight fabrics and heavier threads and larger
needles are used for sewing heavyweight fabrics.
There are many specialty needles available from
your sewing machine dealer.
Check your needles frequently for rough or blunt
tips. Snags and runs in knits, fine silks and silk-like
fabrics are permanent and are often caused by dam-
aged needles.
Changing Needles
1. Press the needle key to raise the needle.
Lower the presser foot. Turn off the power
switch. Turn the needle clamp screw
•
counter-
clockwise to loosen.
2. Remove the needle from the clamp. Insert the
new needle into needle clamp
‚
with the flat
side to the back, pushing it up as far as it will go.
Tighten the clamp screw firmly.
3. To determine if the needle is defective, place the
flat side of the needle on something flat
(a needle plate, piece of glass, etc.). The gap
between the needle and the flat surface should
be consistent.
Never use a bent or blunt needle, as it may
cause skipped stitches or thread breakage. De-
fective needles can ruin the fabric. Always pur-
chase good quality needles. Change needles
often.
Weight Fabric Needle Type Needle
Size
Very
Light
Chiffon, Fine Lace,
Organdy
Universal
Ball Point
9 (65)
9 (65)
Batiste, Lawn, Crepe
de Chine, Challis
Handkerchief Linen,
Crepe, Taffeta, Satin
Stretch
Universal
11 (75)
11 (75)
12 (80)
Single Knits, Jersey,
Swimwear, Tricot
Stretch
Ball Point
11 (75)
11 (75)
Light
Leather, Suede Leather 11 (75)
Flannel, Velour, Velvet,
Velveteen, Corduroy,
Linen, Gabardine,
Wool, Terry, Burlap
Universal 14 (90)
Double Knits, Stretch
Velour, Stretch Terry,
Sweater Knits
Ball Point 14 (90)
Medium
Leather, Vinyl, Suede Leather 14 (90)
Denim, Sailcloth,
Ticking
Denim 16 (100)
Coating, Polar Fleece,
Drapery and
Upholstery Fabrics
Universal 16 (100)
Heavy
Leather, Suede Leather 16 (100)
Canvas, Duck,
Upholstery Fabrics
Universal 18 (110)Very
Heavy
Topstitching for
Special Finish
Topstitching 11 (75)
14 (90)
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