Page 27
TROUBLESHOOTING COOLING
Low voltage.
Thermostat not set cold enough or
inoperative.
Compressor hums but cuts off on
overload.
Open or shorted compressor
windings.
Open overload.
Open capacitor.
Inoperative system switch.
Broken, loose or incorrect wiring.
Check for voltage at compressor. 115 volt and 230 volt
units will operate at 10% voltage variance
Set thermostat to coldest position. Test thermostat
and replace if inoperative.
Hard start compressor. Direct test compressor. If
compressor starts, add starting components.
Check for continuity and resistance.
Test overload protector and replace if inoperative.
Test capacitor and replace if inoperative.
Test for continuity in all positions. Replace if
inoperative.
Refer to appropriate wiring diagram to check wiring.
Test switch and replace in inoperative.
Refer to applicable wiring diagram.
Test capacitor and replace if inoperative.
Test switch and replace if inoperative.
Test fan motor and replace if inoperative. (Be
sure internal overload has had time to reset.)
Inoperative system switch.
Broken, loose or incorrect wiring.
Open capacitor.
Fan speed switch open.
Inoperative fan motor.
Refer to Sizing Charts.
Set to coldest position. Test thermostat and
replace if necessary.
Clean as recommended in Owner’s Manual.
Use steam or detergents to clean.
Adjust discharge air louvers. Use high fan
speed.
Close doors. Instruct customer on use of
this feature.
Check for leak and make repair.
Check amperage draw against nameplate. If
not conclusive, make pressure test.
Undersized unit.
Thermostat open or inoperative.
Dirty filter.
Dirty or plugged condenser or
evaporator coil.
Poor air circulation in area being
cooled.
Fresh air or exhaust air door open
on applicable models.
Low capacity – undercharge.
Compressor not pumping properly.
Compressor does not
run.
Fan motor
does not run.
Does not cool, or cools
only slightly.
TO CORRECT
POSSIBLE CAUSEPROBLEM
TO CORRECT
POSSIBLE CAUSE
POSSIBLE CAUSE
PROBLEM
PROBLEM
TO CORRECT
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