INOV8 Model F240 – Edited September 2008
36
2. Past the Air Apportioning Adjustment and then on to (and out) the nozzle where it
atomizes the oil. A quick check to see if you’re getting sufficient atomizing air is
to place a small rod (nail, Allen wrench, coat hanger, etc.) into the threaded hole
in the end of the Bimba cylinder until it bottoms out. Then see if you feel it kick
back about ½” when PTFI comes on. It should.
Here are some things that could be wrong in the air supply system:
• Supply from building air compressor is absent. See if you have any pressure on
the air regulator gauge.
• The air regulator pressure is not adjusted to 30 lbs @ PTFI. Check the air
regulator gauge when the PTFI light is on.
• The 4-amp orange burner fuse or the 10-amp fuse in the controller (or both) is
blown. If either is blown, you will not have 120v on the orange wire to open the
air solenoid when the PTFI light comes on. Remove the fuses and check them
with a meter. Note: The Trouble-Shooting section in this manual gives help on
how to check for voltage and pin down a bad fuse if you don’t have a meter.
• The air solenoid is defective. To check it, remove the plastic line from the Bimba
cylinder elbow. (Push the ring in and pull the line out) Try to fire the burner and
see if any air comes out the plastic line at PTFI time. If not, the solenoid isn’t
opening. Perform the Maintenance Procedure: Bypassing the Air Solenoid to
see if it’s bad.
CHECKING THE DRAFT & THINGS THAT CAN CAUSE IT TO BE WRONG
Draft can be checked with a draft gauge, of course, but another way that seems to work
well enough is to hold a cigarette lighter flame by the ¼” hole in the 2” flame viewing port
to see if the flame gets sucked into the hole. If it does, your draft is probably OK. If there
is too much air blowing around the hole to get a good check, hold a tube like a ¼” brake
line to the hole and place the flame at the other end of the tube. If the flame is not
sucked into the hole, you have a draft problem. The burner must be firing and time
should be given for the chimney to heat up before making this check. Should you have a
draft gauge, use it to measure the draft at the same place: .02” wc is bare minimum. A
reading of around .04” wc is typical. If your reading is much higher than this, too much
heat is being lost up the chimney. Reduce it to .04” wc by opening the barometric
damper flap. Here are things that typically cause insufficient draft:
• The heat exchanger tubes are dirty.
• The barometric damper flap is open too far.
• The burner is over firing.
• The combustion air adjustment is open too far.
• The chimney is ineffective – Too short, too many elbows, too much horizontal.
• There is an exhaust fan running somewhere in your building. These things don’t
tend to require explanation of how to detect and correct. Bear in mind that draft
improves when the chimney is hot, so, if you have problems getting the burner to
start but then find it running well later, the problem could be draft. If you can’t
correct your poor draft, contact INOV8. You may require a draft inducer.
BY-PASSING THE BIMBA CYLINDER
CRITICAL WARNING: DO NOT bypass the Bimba cylinder if the oil solenoid is not
functioning properly.
A Bimba cylinder that is leaking air internally causes the burner to run roughly or go out.
This is due to the air getting into the oil stream and venting out the nozzle. When an air
bubble vents out the nozzle, the flame extinguishes – maybe very briefly. Air venting out
the nozzle is always indicated by a bouncing of the oil gauge needle and there are things
other than the Bimba cylinder that can cause it but, if you’ve been directed here from the
Trouble-Shooting section because symptoms pointed at the Bimba, here’s how to bypass
it:
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