INOV8 Model F240 – Edited September 2008
37
1. Remove the little 1/8” plastic airline completely by disconnecting both ends from
the quick-disconnects. (Push in the ring, pull out the line.) Put the plastic line
somewhere that you won’t lose it.
2. We need to keep the air from coming out the quick-disconnect that’s screwed
into the block. You can both remove it and replace it with a 1/16” pipe plug or
you can stick something like an 8-penny (8D) nail into it. Don’t use anything
that’s likely to damage it.
3. Remove the 90
o
elbow from the Bimba cylinder. It will be damaged if not
removed before attempting to remove the Bimba cylinder.
4. Remove the Bimba cylinder. (The needle comes out with it and don’t lose the
“O” ring that seals the Bimba to the module block. (Place a rag against the
module block beneath the cylinder to catch any oil that runs out the vacated hole
so it doesn’t get down into the heating element.)
5. Unscrew the needle from the Bimba cylinder and put it with the plastic line.
6. Screw the Bimba cylinder back into the block just to plug the hole. Make sure
the ‘O’ ring’s there.
7. If the trouble that brought you here has been corrected by this bypassing
procedure, you can run with it bypassed until you receive a new cylinder, but
check to make sure no oil is squirting out the nozzle before PTFI. If oil is
squirting out, the oil solenoid is not functioning and you cannot run with the
Bimba bypassed.
REPLACING THE VAPOR ELIMINATOR FILTER
Place a small bucket under the vapor eliminator canister to catch any oil that may spill as
you are doing this procedure.
1. Loosen the nut on top of the vapor eliminator canister.
2. Carefully lower the canister as it will be full of oil. Pour the oil into the bucket
(this can then be returned to the oil storage tank.
3. Pull the vapor eliminator filter out of the canister and discard. It is rayon and will
be soft.
4. Clean the canister before inserting the new filter. Canister debris can get shifted
to the bolt area during removal of the old filter and that debris can then run up by
the bolt, through the center of the new filter and on to the nozzle.
5. Replace the filter being sure to use care. Don’t shove the new filter down into
the canister so far that the top of the filter doesn’t press against the vapor
eliminator head when the canister is screwed back on. Otherwise the oil just
flows over the top of the filter.
6. Return the o-ring and secure with the rubber-backed washer. Replace both
items every other filter change.
7. Don’t be too rough with the new filter. The fibers can be rubbed loose and loose
fibers in the passage running up through the middle of the filter can pass to the
nozzle.
CLEANING THE NOZZLE
Your furnace uses what we call a –3.1 nozzle. The nozzle is made up of 2 parts plus an
aluminum washer that we add to it. There is the nozzle cap (the brass part that
unscrews) and the ‘spinner’ which you will see sitting in a small tube after removing the
‘cap’. The aluminum washer seals the spinner into the tube that it sits in. We refer to it
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