1DH Boussinesq Wave Module - Examples
97
where H
m0
and H
m0,i
are the simulated significant wave height and incident
significant wave height, respectively. From Figure 4.65 is seen that after 5
minutes simulation time the significant wave height is close to one (away from
the porosity layer). This clearly shows that you need to run the model for a
longer period to be able to carry out a proper statistical analysis. If you
change the running period from 5 minutes (3001 time steps) to 20 minutes
(12001 time steps) you will obtain a variation of the wave height as shown in
Figure 4.66. With an average value of the significant wave height of 1.07-1.08
m and the incident significant wave height of 1.0 m the wave reflection coeffi-
cient is estimated to 0.38-0.41. This estimate is in excellent agreement with
the theory.
Figure 4.66 Model results. 3D pictures of the simulated instantaneous surface ele-
vation. Upper: regular waves. Lower: irregular waves
List of data and parameter files
All data required for this example are included in the default installation:
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