Plug the signal
cables
from
your
turntable into these
jacks.
lf the cables
or
plugs
are color-coded,
refer
to
your
turntable's
instruction
manual to
learn which
cable or
plug
is
for the Left channel
and
which is for the Right. Be carelul
to
insert each
plug
fully into the socket so
that the
plug's
metal
skirt
fits tightly
over
the
exterior
of the socket.
lf necessary,
crimp
the leaves of
the
plug's
metal
skirt slightly
inward so
as
to obtain a
tight
fit with the
socket.
Moving-coil
pickups
with
low
output
voltage
should
be
used
with an external
transformer or
pre-preamp.
Plug the
turntable's cables
into the
input
jacks
of the step-up device,
then connect
its outputs
to the PHONO
jacks.
3.
PHONO GROUND.
lf
your
turntable
is
equipped
with
a
grounding
wire
(usually
a
green
wire terminating
in
a U-shaped
spade
lug),
connect
it
to this screw
terminal.
Use
a screwdriver
to loosen
the
screw,
place
the spade
lug
under
the
head of the screw,
and tighten the screw clock-
wise to
secure
the lug. lf the
grounding
wire has no terminal
lug, strip off a
half-inch
(1
to 2 cm) of
insulation to
expose
the bare
wire, twist the wire strands
tightly together, and
fasten the bare
wire under the
head
of
the
Ground
screw.
CAUTION:
Do not use excessive
force when tightening
the Ground screw,
or
you
may strip the threads.
4.
AUX INPUT.
These auxiliary
jacks
are
for
any
"line
level"
signal
source,
such as a
television sound tuner, the
audio
line output
from a
videocassette or
videodisc
player,
or
the decoded
signal
from a digital audio disc
player.
As
with the other
input/output
jacks
on
this receiver, the upper
jack
in
each
pair
is for the Left channel and
the lower
jack
is for the
Right channel.
5.
TAPE RECORD/PLAY.
The tape connections
may be used
with recorders of all
types: cassette,
micro-
cassette, open-reel,
digital, etc.
To
play
recorded tapes,
connect
a stereo
patch
cord
from the recorder's
LINE OUT
jacks
to the
receiver's
PLAY input
jacks.
To make record-
ings, connect
a stereo
patch
cord
from the receiver's
RE-
CORD
jacks
to
the recorder's
LINE lN
jacks
(not
to
its
microphone
inputs).
lf
you
wish
to use a signal-processing
accessory
with
your
receiver-such
as a
graphic
equalizer,
a dynamic
expander,
a
DBX or CX
disc decoder,
a noise
filter, or an
ambience-reproduction
system-you
must connect
it to the
receiver's
TAPE
RECORD/PLAY
iacks.
Disconnect the
tape
recorder, connect
a cable
from the
receiver's
RECORD
output
jacks
to the
processor's
"From
Amplifier"
main in-
puts,
and connect
another
cable
from the
processor's
"To
Amplifier"
or
"Monitor
Output"
jacks
to the
receiver's
PLAY
inputs.
Then connect
your
tape recorder
to the signal
processor's
own
TAPE
RECORD/PLAY
!acks.
6.
DC OUTPUT
This
DIN-type socket can
provide
op-
erating
power (+
17 volts
DC) to certain
accessory
products
such
as a
pre-preamplifier
for
low-output
moving-coil car-
tridges.
Such
products
might have to be
fitted
with a
plug
that
fits this socket.
7. SPEAKERS.
lf the
wiring to each
loudspeaker
will
not be
longer
than about
6 meters
(20
feet), then
connections
should
be
made using
18-gauge
wire such
as
common
lamp cord
("zip"
cord),
available
from
hardware
and e]ectrical-supply
stores
in either
white, black,
or brown
insulation.
lf the
wiring to the speakers
will
be
longer
than
about
6
meters,
heavier
16-gauge or
14-gauge
wire is
preferred.
Heavy-duty
wiring
is
especially
desirable
if
you
are
using
speakers
of
low impedance
or two
pairs
of
speakers
wired in
parallel.
To make connections,
separate
the two
conductors
of
the cord, strip
off
about a
half-inch
(1
cm) of
insulation
from
each, and
in
each
conductor
twist
together
the exposed
wire
strands.
Fully depress
the colored
tab below each
SPEAK-
ERS terminal
in order to open
up
the hole
in the terminal,
then
insert
the bared
wire
into the hole and
release
the tab;
the
terminal
will
grasp
the
wire and
hold it
in
place.
Repeat
for each
conductor,
connecting
the wires
from the
left-chan-
nel
speaker
to the
L+ and
L- terminals
and the
wires
from
the
right-channel
speaker
to the
R
+
and
R
-
terminals.
Check
to be
sure
that no
loose strands
of
wire
are
touching
any
adjacent
terminal
or
wire.
PHASING. Stereo
speakers
should operate
in
phase
with
each
other
in
order
to
yield
a
good
stereo
image and
to
reinforce rather
than cancel
each
other's
output at
low
frequencies.
lf
your
speakers
are
easily
moved,
phasing
can
easily be
checked.
Make the connections
to the speakers,
place
the speakers
face-to{ace
only
a lew
inches apart,
play
some
music, and
listen.
Then swap
the connection
of
the two
wires at
the back of
ONE of
the speakers,
and
listen
again.
The connection
which
produces
the
fullest, boomiest
bass
output
is the correct
one.
Connect
the
wires securely
to
the speaker
terminals,
being
careful
to avoid
leaving
loose
strands
of
wire
which might
touch the
wrong
terminal and
create
a
partial
short-circuit,
and
then move
the speakers
to
their intended
locations.
lf the speakers
cannot
easily be set
face-to{ace,
then
phasing
must
rely on the
"polarity"
oI
the connecting
wires.
Note that
the SPEAKERS
terminals
on the
receiver are
color-coded:
in each
channel
the terminal
with the
red tab
has
positive
"
+
"
polarity
and
the black terminal
is negative
"
-
".
The
terminals at
the
rear of
the speakers
are also
marked
for
polarity,
either
via
red and black
connectors
or
by
labels:
"
+
",
1,
or 8
ohms
for
positive,
"
-
",
0, or
G
for
negative.
As a
general rule the
positive (red)
terminal
on
the
receiver
is to be connected
to the
positive
terminal
of
the speaker,
in
each
channel.
To facilitate
this, the
two conductors
comprising
the
speaker
wire
in each channel
are
different, either
in the
color
of
the wire
itself
(copper
vs. silver)
or
in the
presence
of a small
ridge or
rib
pattern
on
the
insulation of one con-
ductor.
Use
this
pattern
to
establish
consistent
wiring to both
speakers
of a
stereo
pair.
Thus if
you
connect
the copper-
colored
wire
(or
ribbed
insulation)
to the
red receiver
termi-
nal in the
Left channel,
do the
same
in the
Right
channel.
At
the other end
of the
wire,
if
you
connect
the copper-colored
wire
(or
the
ribbed insulation)
to the
red or
positive
terminal
on
the left-channel
speaker,
do
the same
at the
right-
channel speaker.
8.
SPEAKER
IMPEDANCE.
The impedance
of a
loud-
speaker
varies
with
frequency, and
in many
loudspeakers
the impedance
is lowest at
the
frequencies
where the
high-
est
power
demands
occur
in
music.
ln the majority of
"8
ohm"
loudspeakers
this
minimum
impedance
is from
4 to
6
ohms, and
in
"4
ohm" speakers
the minimum
is typically
3
ohms.
And
if
you
were to connect
two
pairs
of speakers
to
the
receiver,
wiring them
in
parallel,
their combined
imped-
ance
would be
approximately
half the
impedance of
either.
For these
reasons, all
NAD
receivers are designed
to
produce
maximum
power
output
into
impedances of
2 to 6
ohms.
But
the
7120 receiver
is equipped
with a Speaker
lmpedance
selector
which
you
can
re-set
to increase
the
available
power
output
into 8 ohms
and
higher impedances.
lf
you
are
not sure
of
the true
impedance of
your
speakers,
or
if
you
are
connecting
two
pairs
ol speakers,
leave the
lmpedance
switch
in its
NORMAL
(4
OHMS)
setting.
ll
you
are
using
a single
pair
of
loudspeakers
whose
minimum
impedance
is at
least 6 ohms
and
whose average
impedance
is above
8 ohms,
you
should
re-set this switch
to
re-optimise
the amplifier
for maximum
power
delivery
at this
higher
impedance.
First,
turn down
the
Volume or switch
off
the
Power.
Now,
in order
to
prevent
the
lmpedance
switch
from being
re-set accidentally,
it is held tightly
in
place
by a
pair
of
screws
located
to the
left and
right of
the switch
handle.
Use
a screwdriver
to
turn the screws
slightly
counter-clockwise
to loosen
them.
(DO
NOT
REMOVE
the screws!)
Note
that
the screws
are
installed
in
slots
so
that they
can be
moved
to the
left or
right. To set
the
lmpedance
selector
to
HIGH
(8
OHMS),
slide
the screw
heads
all the
way to the
left end
of
their
respective slots.
Then
re-tighten
the screws.
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