40
If the heat shrink is being used, slide it onto the #915 wire, followed by the
rubber boot. A very small amount of lubricant such as WD-40 or motor oil
may be applied on the inside of the rubber boot to allow the boot to slide
down the wire easier.
With the boot on, strip about ¼” of insulation from the charge wire and
crimp the ring terminal on. You can use a pair of pliers if your crimpers will
not accept this large gauge wire/terminal.
Connect this wire to the B+/Output stud on the Alternator. Once the nut is
on the stud on the output post has been tightened, the boot can now be
slid up the wire to cover the nut and ring terminal installed on the
Alternator. The heat shrink can be slid over the end of the boot and shrunk
down.
Be advised this heat shrink will have to be removed before the rubber boot
can slide back down the wire if the charge wire is ever to be removed.
If your vehicle has an aftermarket ONE WIRE ALTERNATOR, meaning it does
not require a switched 12v souce or regulator connections or if the Painless or other
aftermarket fuel injection harness you are using has an alternator connector, then this
output wire is the only wire used in this section at the alternator. A one wire GM 10-SI
can be seen below.
Locate the 2 wires intended for alternator regulator connections; they will be
grouped together in the Start/Charge Section. These wires are:
Black/Red: 14 gauge wire, printed [START/CHARGE] #995 REGULATOR BATTERY
POWER, this wire will provide a battery power source, or amperage sample that some
voltage regulators require. This wire will have power at all times and comes from the
large battery supply splice in the harness. This wire will not be needed if you have a one
wire alternator or a GM CS series alternator . See Charge/Battery Power Schematic on
page 53.
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