STROBEL
4 Instructions for
use
4.
1 Needles
and
threads
4.1.1
(see
chart,
point
2.4
Technical data)
The
needle size
to
be used depends on
the
material
to
be
sewn
and on
the
thread respectively. Needle
type
to
be used is 1
35-35.
When
joining fused parts
it
may
happen
that
the
needle eye conglutinates,
which
may
affect
the
loop
formation.
Thicker
and harder material requires
thicker
needles.
Working instructions
Class
141-23
is used
for
attaching
the
insole
to
the
upper, up
to
a
total
thickness
of
7
mm.
4.
1 . 1 . 1 Working with gathering device
By class
141-23
the
insole is
sewn
to
the
upper. The gathering device
facilitates
the
distribution
of
extra fullness
of
the
upper
at
the
toe
on
Vulcano
and
light
weight
leather shoes. A
flat
seam is obtained
which
is
completely
covered
when
vulkanizing
the
shoe in a press subsequently.
The gathering device (EV) is operated
by
means
of
the
left
treadle. By
pushing
it
forwards
the
lever
with
guide
186.0195
(fig. 8 and
fig.
1 0)
of
the
gathering device is
swivelled
between
the
feed cups
by
means
of
the
rod and
the
deflection
lever. By heeling
the
treadle,
the
gathering device
returns
to
its
initial position.
Lift
feed cups
by
means
of
knee lever before
swivelling
the
gathering device.
By using
the
gathering device a
unform
distribution
of
excess material
is
obtained. The operator actuates
the
gathering device on certain
spots
market
at
insole and upper.
After
acquiring
some
experience, such marks
are
not
necessary
any
more. (fig. 9).
Machines used
with
gathering device should be equipped
with
a
stop
motor
for
two
needle positions,
to
simplify
handling and
to
increase
output.
First
position
Second
position
front
needle
position
= rear needle
position
The
first
needle position is
impotant
when
swivelling
guide
186.0195,
to
keep
the
shoe in a certain position
when
lifting
the
cups;
this
first
position
is
also necessary
for
threading.
16
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