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How to Change a Tire
1. Place blocking under main rail/frame with hydraulic jack on top of
blocking in front of spring hanger, ALWAYS on main rail.
2. Break lug nuts loose before raising coach. DO NOT remove nuts.
3. Raise coach with jack until tire is off the ground.
4. Place additional blocking under frame for security support. DO
NOT depend fully on jack.
5. Be sure coach is solid and will not move with tire and wheel off.
6. Remove lug nuts when tire is off the ground.
7. Install spare tire and wheel onto hub.
8. Reinstall lug nuts and tighten firmly.
9. Drop tire and wheel onto ground after removing supports.
10. Now fully tighten and torque lugs at 90 to 120 foot pounds.
11. Place all equipment into coach or tow vehicle, blocking and jack.
12. Re-torque wheel after traveling 100 miles.
Wheel Bearings
ALL wheel bearings are pre-lubricated during assembly of axle and
brakes. Your coach may have ‘ULTRA LUBE’ method of having a grease
fitting in the end of axle. Remove rubber cap on end and use standard
grease gun to place 6 TO 8 shots of grease into bearings. Don’t forget to
repack your bearings correctly as per maintenance manual.
Wheel Lugs
When the wheels are installed on your recreational vehicle, the lug nuts
must be tightened at 90-120 foot pounds of torque. Powder coat painted
wheels may require more torque attempts due to thickness of paint. You
must re-torque the wheel lugs at 50 and 200 miles when new. A decal
on the wheel may require torque earlier.
After your first trip, check the wheel lugs periodically for safety. The
wheel lugs should then be checked after winter storage, before starting a
trip or following extensive braking. The size of bolts or nuts is 13/16 inch
standard and 3/4” for chrome nut. Over torque will damage components,
especially if torque wheel lugs goes over 150 pounds. Normally the
“nut” fails first however the embossing on the wheel can also be
flattened, and then fail to keep wheel tight.
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