SECTION II
Getting Ready to Sew
Selecting the Correct Needle and Thread
There are many kinds of fabrics, threads and
needles. It is important to use the correct ones to-
gether.
Always purchase good quality thread. It should be
strong, smooth and even in thickness. Use the same
thread for needle and bobbin. Always test thread and
needle size on a scrap piece of fabric.
In general, fine threads (the larger the number, the
finer the thread) and needles (the smaller the num-
ber, the finer the needle) are used for sewing light-
weight fabrics and heavier threads and larger
needles are used for sewing heavyweight fabrics.
There are many specialty needles available from
your sewing machine dealer.
Check your needles frequently for rough or blunt
tips. Snags and runs in knits, fine silks and silk-like
fabrics are permanent and are often caused by dam-
aged needles.
Changing the Needle
Turn off the machine. Turn the flywheel toward you
to raise the needle. Lower the presser foot.
Turn the needle clamp screw counterclockwise to
loosen.
Remove the needle from the clamp.
Insert the new needle into the clamp with the flat
side to the back, pushing it up as far as it will go.
Tighten the clamp screw firmly.
To determine if the needle is defective, place the flat
side of the needle on something flat (a needle plate,
piece of glass, etc.). The gap between the needle
and the flat surface should be even.
Never use a bent or broken needle. It may cause
skipped stitches or thread breakage. Defective
needles can ruin the fabric.
Always purchase good quality needles. Change
needle often.
9
Weight
Fabric
Needle Type
Needle
Size
Very
Light
Chffon, Fine Lace,
Organdy
Universal
Ball Point
9 (65)
9 (65)
Light
Batiste, Lawn, Crepe
de Chine, Chillas
Handkerchief Linen,
Crepe, Taffeta, Satin
Stretch
Universal
11 (75)
11 (75)
12 (80)
Single Knits, Jersey,
Swimmwear, Tricot
Stretch
Ball Point
11 (75)
11 (74)
Leather, Suede
Leather 11 (75)
Medium
Flannel, Velour, Velvet,
Velvetine, Corduroy,
Linen, Gaberdine,
Wool, Terry, Burlap
Unversal
14 (90)
Double Knits, Stretch,
Velour, Stretch terry,
Sweater knits
Ball Point
14 (90)
Leather, Vinyl, Suede
Leather
14 (90)
Heavy
Denim, Sailcloth
Denim
16 (100)
Caoting, Polar Fleece,
Drapery and Upholstery
Fabric
Universal 16
(100)
Leather, Suede
Leather
16 (100)
Very
Heavy
Canvas, Duck,
Upholstery Fabric
Universal
18 (110)
Topstitching for
Special Finish
Topstitching
11 (75)
14 (90)
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