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Overcasting
——
figs. 14, 15
∃⊡
A
5 ↿∕≀∼⊇
or
⋖∶⋡
−⊜
5 ‘/2—1
Fig.,14
−−
Darning
or
embroidery thread
Simply follow the
illustration.
For medium
or
thick material,
use
stitch
width
5 and length
1‘/2-2, position the
cloth
guide
on
the
foot
at
the right side
of
the stitch width, and guide the material along the cloth guide.
Fig. 15
—
A
hint
for fine materials: position the edge of the
material
at
the
centre
of
the
foot
and guide the material along
the
cloth
guide- Stitch
width
5, length 1‘/S-2.
The needle
will
then stitch
over
the edge
of
the material
to
the
right, and the result
will
be
neat
overcasting
with
a finished
width
of
2
mm
(1/15").
Overcasting
with
the three-step zigzag
with
a shorter
stitch
is particularly suitable
for
sheer and medium materials. This
overcasting stands
up
to
repeated washing and keeps the
material
flat.
Patching
—
figs. 16, 17
EE] ↽⋰∶∶
A
5 ↴∕∸↵∕⊋
Fine darning thread
Place the patch
over
the damaged part. Sew around the edge
of
the patch
with
the
overcasting stitch. Then
cut
away the
damaged part, close
to
the stitching. With this simple method,
the patch
can
be
sewn
on
in
one
operation and there
are
no
excess
thicknesses
or
felled
seams.
When patching jersey, proceed in the
same
manner
but
it
is pre-
ferable
to
make the patch circular and
sew
it
on
about 1
cm
l‘/2")
from
the edge. Then
cut
off
the
excess
material around the edge
of
the
patch and
the
damaged part
of
the original
material.
Jersey Hem
Only
one
fold
is made and
sewn
in basically
the
same
way
as
the
patch, namely 1
cm
(‘/2")
from
the edge, which is
then
cut
back
close
to
the stitching.
Instant Darning
—
fig. 18
E
9%:
∆⊟
↿∕∡−≖∕≖
If
a fine darning thread
of
the right shade is used, a
tear
or
ladder
in jersey
can
be repaired quickly and the darn
will
be almost
invisible (fig. 18).
If
the material is
very
worn
or
frayed, place a piece
of
gauze
underneath. Sew
once
down the middle
of
the tear, drawing
the
edges «together
as
close
as
possible. Then
sew
again
on
either
side, making
sure
that
the needle pierces the
central
stitching.
Edge-to-Edge Sewing
—
fig. 19
E
∆
5 ↿⋌⋅−↿∕≳
Place
two
selvedges edge
to
edge and
sew.
This is useful
for
turning
worn
sheets "side
to
middle". Excess thicknesses
are
avoided and the stitches disappear in the material.
39
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