a very convenient arrangement. although a slightly
heavier mast section has to be chosen than if
the mast is led through to the kelson. Thus, as a
consequence of its moderate length, the mast is
relatively easily handled. When stepping the mast,
see that the mast step on the cabin top is carefully
entered. and be aware of the wiring emerging from
the mast foot. This wiring must carefully be led
through the tube welded to the step, and to avoid
any damage to the wiring, one person should be
downstairs pulling the wiring through the tube
while the mast is lowered carefully until the bottom
of the step is touched (The mast is, as standard,
delivered with an uninsulated heavy gauge steel
wire running from the masthead to the bottom. This
wire is provided to act as guiding-wire in case you
would like to fit electronic gadgets to the mast-
head from which cables have to be drawn. This
wire need not be led through the tube, and may
conviently be left in the mast-foot.)
Before fixing the standing rigging wires to the
chainplates and the fittings at the stem and stern,
see that all turnbuckles are unscrewed until only
5 to 10 threads are left in the shank. A toggle
MUST be fitted between the bottlescrew and the
bolt in the stemhead-fitting, to avoid bending
and thus damaging the turnbuckle when the
forestay is heavily loaded by a pulling Genoa.
The cap-shrouds have to be fixed to the spreaders
by carefully tying them to the spreader-ends by
use of small-diameter rope before taping. Holes are
provided through the spreader-ends for the rope.
We recommend that the cap-shrouds be tightened
thoroughly, while the lowers be left reasonably
slack. This will result in the stick being straight
while under side-loading generated by the sails.
However, in a really rough sea the lowers may be
tightened as well to avoid excessive strain being
put on the fittings and wires. The forestay and
the backstay have to be tightened thoroughly to
get a straight luff, but avoid over-tightening for
any duration.
c) Hoisting the sails and reefing the main
As standard equipment, halliard winches are fitted
for the jib and the main. Winch for the spinnaker
halliard is optional equipment.
On most of the boats built before 1973, a reel
Winch and wire halliard are provided for the main.
When using the reel Winch it should be noted that
the separate groove in the drum provided near
the mast is to be used for the last turns on the
drum before the headboard is at the black band of the
mast head. This arrangement is provided to reduce the
bending moment at the Winch base.
When hoisting the jib, the halliard should be
pulled home completely by means of the drum
Winch before fixing to the cleat. The main, however,
should be hoisted to the black band only, and the
luff should be stretched by pulling the downhaul at
the gooseneck.
When reefing the main, see that the main boom
topping lift is attached to the boom end. Tighten
the topping lift until all strain is taken of the leech.
Then let go the gooseneck downhaul, see that you
have both the crank for the roller reefing gear and
the crank for the main halliard Winch with you
when you let go the first inches of the halliard.
Slacken the main halliard carefully until the goose-
neck slide has reached its bottom position on the
mast-track. Then have the halliard fixed to its
cleat, and crank the roller reefing Worm gear until
the boom has climbed to its upper position. Then
repeat the operation until the desired area of the
main is rolled to the boom. Then tightened the
boom downhaul, let go the topping lift and pull
home the sheet.
When rolling the reefing gear, it is usually conve-
nient to release most of the stress put on the main-
sail by letting go some of the sheet and/ or heading
closer to the wind. See that the leech is left on the
boom with as few wrinkles as possible, and note
that the battens should be taken out of their
pockets when they are close to the boom. No batten
should be allowed to be rolled in with the sail.
When Shaking out the reef, the opposite procedure
should be followed, which ought to be self-explana-
tory.
d) Periodic attentions
Chafing to the sails and running rigging is the
most usual cause of breakdowns at sea. Be aware
of this fact, and see that any chafing is mended
instantly.
Periodically, rigging screws, pins and bolts of mast-
and deck-fittings should be inspected for wear and
tear, and winches, shackles, blocks, turnbuckles etc.
should be lubricated with oil or grease to avoid
drying out and becoming stiff by corrosion and salt
water. The sails should be kept clean and dry.
Make it a rule to check over all turnbuckles and t
fittings where sharp corners, looking pins etc.
are incorporated, and use lots of soft, self-adhesive
tape to protect your sails from being damaged by
such sharp spots. Always carry on board such tape
as well as mending tape for your sails.
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