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19. FLATLOCK SEWING
A flatlock stitch is made by sewing the seam and
pulling the fabric apart to flatten the seam. The
flatlock stitch can be used both as a decorative
construction stitch, sewing two pieces together
(Standard flatlock stitch), or for embellishment on
only one piece of fabric (Ornamental flatlock stitch).
There are two ways to sew a flatlock stitch. Either
with the wrong sides of the fabric together to create
a decorative look, or with the right sides together, to
create a ladder stitch.
(1) Standard flatlock stitch
* Use the left or the right needle.
* Thread the lower looper and the left (A) or right (B)
needle. For 3-thread flatlock : Thread the lower and
upper looper and the left (A) or right (B) needle.
* Set the machine according to the “ handy reference
chart” (page 20).
* Place the wrong sides of the two pieces of fabric
together to sew a decorative stitch on the right side
of the garment.
* Sew the seam, trimming the excess fabric. The
needle thread will form a V on the underside of the
fabric. The lower looper thread will pull into a
straight line at the fabric edge.
* Unfold the fabric and pull on opposite sides of the
seam to pull the stitches flat.
(2) Ornamental flatlock stitch
* Follow steps 1-3 above.
* Fold the fabric piece, wrong sides together, to sew
a decorative stitch from the right side of the
garment (at the fold).
* Position the fabric so the seam is sewn with part of
the stitch extending off the fabric.
* Unfold the fabric and pull on opposite sides of the
stitch to flatten.
Tip: The upper looper thread is the prominent thread
in the flatlock stitch. Place a decorative thread in
the upper looper and regular threads in the
lower looper and needle.
(3) Ladder stitch
To create a ladder stitch, sew with right sides of the
fabric together. The needle thread will be the prominent
thread that creates the ladder.