This document is an owner's manual and warranty for a Temp-Cast Model 2000 Fireplace, a type of masonry heater.

Function Description:

The Temp-Cast Model 2000 Fireplace is a masonry heater designed for efficient and safe wood burning, providing radiant heat to a home. Unlike conventional wood stoves or fireplaces, masonry heaters store heat in their large thermal mass and release it slowly over many hours. This design aims for high combustion efficiency, reduced air pollution, and sustained heat output from a relatively short, hot fire. The fireplace can also be equipped with an optional bake oven for cooking after the fire has burned out.

Important Technical Specifications:

Heat Output: Determined by the weight of wood burned, not the rate. Recommended burning limit is no more than 50 lbs (20kg) of wood in any 6-hour period, and no more than 100 lbs per day.
Fuel Type: Designed to burn only wood or commercially prepared wood fuel products. All cordwood, regardless of size, and pieces thicker than 5" (120mm) in diameter should be split.
Wood Moisture Content: For proper combustion and performance, wood must be dried to 20% moisture content or less.
Combustion Efficiency: Achieves well over 90% combustion efficiency when air supply is unobstructed and dry wood is used. This reduces pollution and maximizes heat extraction from gases.
Clearances to Combustibles: The masonry facade surface should be no closer than 4" (100mm) to combustibles on all sides, 10" (250mm) overhead, and 2" (50mm) on all sides of the chimney. Combustible materials should be kept 48" (1.2m) from the front of the fireplace, directly in front of the firebox doors.
Refractory Material: Designed to withstand very high temperatures. Hairline thermal cracks may occur during curing but are not structural and do not affect safety or performance.
Door Gaskets: Equipped with fiberglass rope gaskets, which require periodic replacement.
Chimney Dampers: Three types can be installed: roof-top dampers (full-closure, controlled by stainless steel cable), sliding dampers (installed in masonry chimney, small open area when fully shut), and custom-built round base-exit dampers (for round chimney systems).
Bake Oven (Optional): Allows baking after the fire is completely out, utilizing stored heat. An optional thermometer can be installed.

Usage Features:

Curing Procedure: A crucial initial process for newly installed fireplaces, involving a series of small, gradually hotter fires over 5 days to slowly drive off water from the refractory. This prevents damage and ensures proper heating. The process involves splitting about 100 lbs (45kg) of dry firewood into 2" to 3" (50mm to 75mm) diameter pieces and burning them in increasing amounts and frequency. Steam escaping during curing is normal.
Lighting the Fire (Normal Operation): While forgiving, attention to fire-building techniques maximizes efficiency. The "top-down burn" method is recommended for optimal combustion efficiency and reduced air pollution, especially during start-up. This involves placing larger wood pieces at the bottom and kindling/newspaper on top, allowing the fire to burn downwards.
Adjusting Heat Output: Achieved by varying the weight of wood burned, not by slowing the burn rate. Burning wood too slowly decreases efficiency. Fires should burn rapidly for 1 to 2 hours.
Overfiring Prevention: Using too much wood or firing more often than every 6 hours is considered overfiring. This can damage metal and glass parts and reduce efficiency.
Operating the Bake Oven: Baking can begin once the fire is completely out. Food is placed on oven-proof trays or in lidded containers. Higher temperature foods should be baked first as the oven cools over several hours.
Open Fireplace Mode: Not recommended for regular operation as it slows combustion, reduces efficiency, increases air pollution, and poses a spark risk. In "air-tight" homes, it can disrupt air equilibrium and cause smoke spillage.
Draft Checking: A pre-fire routine involves opening dampers and air supply, placing wood, closing but not latching doors (leaving a 1/4" gap), and holding a lit match near the gap. A strong inward flame indicates good draft. If the flame is blown out or towards you, a down draft or negative pressure exists, and the fire should not be lit.
Emergency Draft Technique: If draft problems persist, a small heat source (e.g., paint stripping gun, butane torch, or one or two twisted sheets of newspaper) can be used in the chimney clean-out to warm the chimney and "prime" the draft.
Chimney Damper Usage: Should be fully open when the fire is burning or coals are present. Once the fire is completely out, the damper can be closed to retain heat.
Full Closure Dampers: Require skill to operate safely. The operator must be absolutely certain all combustion gases have burned off before closing to prevent harmful gases from entering the home. Installation of a carbon monoxide alarm is recommended.

Maintenance Features:

Chimney System Inspection: Recommended monthly for the first 3 months of full-time operation, then at least once a year. Creosote buildup indicates improper burning techniques.
Heat Exchange Channels Cleaning: Soot clean-out doors should be opened, and the base of the channels inspected at least once a year. Fly ash, debris, or small animals should be removed. A "knock-out" plug provides access to the base manifold.
Firebox Care: Refractory walls should be protected by placing firewood gently, rather than throwing it, to prevent gouges and excessive wear.
Glass Cleaning: Can be cleaned with a damp cloth dipped in firebox ashes or with fresh newspaper on heated glass. For stubborn stains, "tri-sodium phosphate" mixed with water can be used. Abrasive materials should be avoided. Cracked or cloudy glass must be replaced.
Metal Parts Care: Cast-iron doors may need occasional gasket replacement. If not used for long periods, they can be wiped with vegetable oil to prevent corrosion. Gold-plated doors should be cleaned with a damp cloth only. Cast-iron sliding dampers should be lubricated regularly with vegetable oil. Cast-iron firebox grates are wear items and require occasional replacement.
Ash Removal: For models with an ash drop, ashes are removed by opening the clean-out access. Otherwise, ashes are removed from the firebox or ash pit. Ashes should be placed in a metal container on a non-combustible surface and disposed of outdoors, as they can contain live embers.
Door Gasket Replacement: Old gaskets are removed, the slot cleaned, new adhesive applied, and the new gasket pressed firmly into the slot. The door is then closed and latched until the adhesive dries.

Temp-Cast 2000 - Page 39

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