25
- press gently on the upper side of the glass so that the three pins,
with silicone on the inside, fit into their holes.
- make sure that the door closes completely.
CONNECTING TO THE GAS SUPPLY
Before connecting the cooker, check that it is preset for the gas to be
used. Otherwise, make the conversion as described in the section
headed "Adapting to different gas types". The connection is on the
right; if the pipe has to pass behind the cooker, it must be kept low
down where the temperature is about 50 degrees C.
- Rigid connection (see Fig. 5, diagram D):
The connection to the mains gas supply may be made using a rigid
metal pipe (D). Remove the hose connector and screw the rigid
union onto the threaded connection of the gas train. The union for
rigid connection is amongst the cooker accessories.
- Connection using a rubber hose (see Fig. 5, diagrams B and C):
Connect a rubber hose carrying the conformity mark currently in
force to the hose connector. The hose must be replaced at the date
indicated, and must be secured at both ends using standard hose
clamps. It must be absolutely accessible to allow its condition to
be checked along its entire length.
- Connection using a metal hose (see Fig. 5, diagram D):
Make the connection using a hose which complies with national
standards, screwing it onto the connector with a ring seal, which is
delivered amongst the cooker accessories.
- After installation, check that all connections are airtight.
- For operation with butane/propane, check that the gas pressure is
as indicated on the nameplate.
IMPORTANT:
- Use only standard rubber hoses. For LPG, use a hose which
complies with the national regulations in force.
- Avoid sharp bends in the pipe and keep it well away from hot sur-
faces.
References to the regulations covering the gas connection to the
appliance: ISO 7-1.
ADAPTING TO DIFFERENT TYPES OF GAS
If the cooker is not already preset to operate with the type of gas
available, it must be converted. Proceed as follows:
- Replace the injectors ( table on page 22);
- regulate the primary air flow;
- regulate the minimum settings.
N.B.: every time you change the type of gas, indicate the new type
of gas on the serial number label.
REPLACING THE HOB BURNER INJECTORS (fig. 6)
- Remove the grid, the burner caps (A), and the burners (B);
- unscrew and remove the injector in the bottom of each injector
holder (C);
- replace the injector in accordance with the table in page 22, using
a 7 mm socket wrench, tighten and screw right down;
- check that the system is gas-tight;
- replace the burners, the burner caps and the grid;
IMPORTANT:
- Never over-tighten the injectors;
- after replacing, check that all the injectors are airtight.
REPLACING THE OVEN BURNER INJECTOR (fig. 7a)
- Loose the screw securing the oven bottom;
- remove the oven bottom (push back and raise);
- remove the oven burner, after taking out its fixing screw;
- replace the injector, using a 7 mm socket wrench.
REPLACING THE GRILL BURNER INJECTOR (fig. 7b)
- Remove the burner after taking out the two screws which secure
it;
- replace the injector using a 7 mm socket wrench.
IMPORTANT:
- Never over-tighten the injectors;
- after replacing, check that all the injectors are airtight.
SETTING HOB BURNER MINIMUM LEVELS
If the cooker is to work on bottled gas (butane/propane), the tap
by-pass must be screwed right down.The cooker may be equipped
with type A taps, with by-pass inside (accessed by inserting a small
screwdriver into the rod) or type B taps, with by-pass on the outside
on the right (accessed directly). See figure 8.
If the cooker is to work on natural gas, proceed as follows for both
types of tap:
- Ignite the burner at maximum flame;
- pull off the knob, without using a lever against the control panel,
which might be damaged;
- access the by-pass with a small screwdriver and back off by about
3 turns (turning the screwdriver anti-clockwise);
- turn the tap rod anti-clockwise again until it stops: the burner will
be at maximum flame;
- screw the by-pass slowly back in, without pushing the screw-driver,
until the flame has apparently shrunk to 1/4 of the maximum size,
checking that it is sufficiently stable even in quite strong draughts.
SETTING OVEN BURNER MINIMUM LEVELS
If the cooker is to work on bottled gas (butane/propane), the ther-
mostat by-pass must be screwed right down.If the cooker is to work
on natural gas, proceed as follows:
- Remove the oven bottom (push towards the back and raise);
- ignite the oven burner, turning the knob pointer to the maximum
setting;
- shut the oven door;
- access the thermostat by-pass ( fig. 9);
- back off the thermostat by-pass by about 3 turns;
- after 5 or 6 minutes, turn the knob pointer to the minimum setting;
- slowly re-tighten the by-pass, watching the flame decrease in size
through the window in the closed oven door until the tongue of the
flame is about 4 mm long. Never keep the flame too low. It must
be stable even when the oven door is opened or closed quickly;
- turn off the burner and replace the oven bottom.
CONNECTING TO THE ELECTRICAL MAINS
Before making the connection, check that:
- the mains voltage is as indicated on the nameplate;
- the earth connection is in good working order.
If the appliance power lead is not fitted with a plug, use an approved
standard type, remembering that:
- the green-yellow wire must be used for the earth connection;
- the blue wire is the neutral;
- the brown wire is live;
- the lead must never touch hot surfaces over about 75 degrees C;
- replacement leads must be of type HO5RR-F of suitable size (see
diagrams in fig. 2).
- if the appliance is supplied without lead, using type HO5RR-F cable
of suitable size (see diagrams in fig. 2).
IMPORTANT: the manufacturer declines all liability for damage due to
failure to comply with the regulations and standards in force. Check
that the appliance is correctly connected to the earth (see diagrams
in fig. 2 at the back of the manual).
FOR COOKERS WITH ELECTRIC IGNITION
The correct gaps between the electrode and the burner are shown
in figures 7a,7b.
If no spark is generated, do not keep on trying as this might damage
the generator.
Possible causes of malfunctions:
- spark plug damp, dirty or broken;
- electrode-burner gap not correct;
Installation
GB
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