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STOVE FEEDS PELLETS, BUT WILL NOT IGNITE
Possible Causes: Possible Remedies:
1. Air damper open too far for ignition.
Push the air damper in closer to the side of the stove for
startup. In some situations, it may be necessary to have the
damper completely closed for ignition to take place. After
there is a ame, the damper can then be adjusted for the
desired feed setting.
2. Blockage in igniter tube or inlet for igniter tube.
Find the igniter housing on the backside of the rewall. The
air intake hole is a small hole located on the bottom side of
the housing. Make sure it is clear. Also, look from the front of
the stove to make sure there is not any debris around the
igniter element inside of the igniter housing.
3. The burnpot is not pushed completely to the rear of the
rebox.
Make sure that the air intake collar on the burnpot is
touching the rear wall of the rebox.
4. Bad igniter element.
Put power directly to the igniter element. Watch the tip of
the igniter from the front of the stove. After about 2 minutes,
the tip should glow. If it does not, the element is bad.
5. The control board is not sending power to the igniter.
Check the voltage going to the igniter during startup. It
should be a full current. If the voltage is lower than full
current, check the wiring. If the wiring checks out good, the
board is bad.
STOVE WILL NOT FEED PELLETS, BUT FUEL FEED LIGHT COMES ON AS DESIGNED
Possible Causes: Possible Remedies:
1. Fuse on control board blew.
Remove the control board. On the back, there is one fuse. If
it appears to be bad, replace it with a 5 Amp 125 Volt fuse.
Plug the stove back in and try to run the unit.
2. High limit switch has tripped or is defective.
Wait for the stove to cool for about 30-45 minutes. It should
now function normally. If not, use the owner’s manual to
locate the high limit thermodisc. To test if the thermodisc is
bad, you can bypass it as described previously for the POF
thermodisc.
3. Bad auger motor.
Remove the auger motor from the auger shaft and try to
run the unit. If the motor will turn, the shaft is jammed on
something. If the motor will not turn, the motor is bad.
4. Auger jam
Start by emptying the hopper. Then remove the auger
motor by removing the auger pin. Remove the auger shaft
inspection plate in the hopper so that you see the auger
shaft. Gently lift the auger shaft straight up so that the
end of the auger shaft comes up out of the bottom auger
bushing. Next, remove the two nuts that hold the top auger
biscuit in. Then rotate the bottom end of the auger shaft up
towards you until you can lift the shaft out of the stove. After
you have removed the shaft, inspect it for bent ights, burrs,
or broken welds. Remove any foreign material that might
have caused the jam. Also, check the auger tube for signs
of damage such as burrs, rough spots, or grooves cut into
the metal that could have caused a jam.
5. Loose wire or connector
Check all wires and connectors that connect to the auger
motor, high limit switch, and the Molex connector.
6. Bad control board
If the fuse is good, the wires and connectors check out
good, and the high limit switch did not trip, test r power
going to the auger motor. If there is not a full current going
to the auger motor when the fuel feed light is on, you have
a bad control board.
Troubleshooting Guide
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