Delta 46-700 - Turning Techniques: Advanced Cuts; Making Long Convex or Tapered Cuts; Making Cove Cuts

LONG CUTS
Long cuts are usually either convex or straight-tapered
surfaces. With a convex surface, the method used in
making the finishing cut is shown in Fig. 62 and 63. The
gouge is turned on the tool rest so that it will be inclined
considerably in the direction in which it is about to move.
The grind is tangent to the work, and the center point of
the cutting edge is the contact point with the wood. As
the cut progresses towards and around the end of the
curve, the handle is gradually raised and swung to the
right, as shown in Fig. 63, in order to maintain the tan-
gency between the grind and the surface being cut, as
shown in Fig. 64.
Figs. 65 and 66 show the cutting of a long taper. The skew
is used, and the operation differs from smoothing a
cylinder only as regards the start of the cut. The starting
cut should be made with the heel, as shown in Fig. 66,
to prevent the tool from digging into the work. As the tool
runs down the work, the chisel can be pulled back to allow
the center point of the cutting edge to cut. However, the
full taper can be made with the heel. There will be a
tendency to cut too deeply at the center of the taper which
should be guarded against. The direction of cutting is
always downhill.
Fig. 64
Fig. 65
COVE CUTS
Second to forming a perfect bead, the cove or concave cut is the most difficult to master. This
cut is made with the gouge, the size of the tool depending upon the size of the cut. The size of
the intended cove is first laid out, and the gouge is pushed directly into the work to remove the
surplus stock, as pictured in Fig. 67. The cove cut can now be made.
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