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HINTS AND TIPS
Chapter 15SuperJig-12-18-24 User Guide
15-11 A single scrap piece can be C-clamped on the back of half-
blind tails, but make sure you protect the workpiece from the clamp
pads. Note: There’s no 100% solution to tearout. It’s not the jig’s
fault, just something that happens when machining, sawing and
even chiseling wood. Important pieces fall off from where you
least want them to.
15-12 On face cuts, whether using a straight bit or a dovetail bit,
climb routing or back routing will leave a clean edge; but great
caution must be exercised in controlling the router’s movement
from right to left, as the bit rotation pulls the router in that
direction anyway.
15-13 General Hints For routing long vertical boards it may
be necessary to build a jig stand to mount securely on your bench.
Make the stand and bench height combination sufficient to accept
the board length you have in mind. The jig stand should be bolted
securely to the bench. Build a stable platform to stand on as in
the illustration. Do not use a set of steps; they’re too unstable.
15-14 When placing long horizontal boards in the rear clamp,
make sure the rear end of the board is supported to prevent unnec-
essary racking of the jig.
15-15 Using The Router Mark the router base top edge at
the 12 o’clock position with a felt marker pen. Without wood or
bits, try some dry runs in each jig mode. This will soon get you
used to positioning the guidebush against the correct guide surface
without looking under the router.
Do not rout at face level.
15-16 Some router bases have sharp edges on the outside and
inside corners. A slight chamfer of the edges with a fine file or
sandpaper block will ease router movement on the jig.
An occasional light spray of TopCote® or application of soft wax
to the router base makes for smooth, easy router movement on
the jig.
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