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23. STITCH VARIATIONS AND
SEWING TECHNIQUES
How to Sew a Flatlock Decorative Seam
• A flatlock stitch is achieved by adjusting the tension
of the 3-thread overlock stitch, sewing the seam
and pulling the fabric apart to flatten the seam.
• The flatlock stitch can be used as a construction
and decorative stitch or for ornamentation only.
• Remove the left or right needle.
• Begin with the machine threaded and tension
balanced for the 3-thread overlock stitch (page 29 ).
• Loosen the needle thread tension (green or blue)
generously.
• Loosen the upper looper thread tension (orange)
slightly.
• Tighten the lower looper thread tension (yellow)
generously.
1) Machine Set Up
• Place the fabric wrong sides together to sew a
decorative stitch on the right side of the garment.
• Sew the seam, trimming the excess fabric.
• The needle thread (green or blue) will form a V on
the underside of the fabric.
• The lower looper thread will pull into a straight line
at the fabric edge.
2) Flatlocking a Seam
Needle thread
Upper looper thread
Needle thread
Lower looper thread
Underside
Topside
Remove Remove