these
manipulations
can
she
commence
sewing. The
best
way
to
get
to
know
the machine is to turn the machine pulley by
hand
and
to
study
all
phases of the performance of the machine. Then, preferably without
threading the machine
and
with the bobbin
case
removed, switch on the
motor
and
run
the
machine,
but
don't
let
the
knife
cut.
By pressing down the right
treadle,
the
brake
is
released
and
the front
driving
belt
(low
speed)
is
shifted
from the
front
loose pulley to the
front
driving pulley, thus driving the machine
at
half
speed.
When pressing the
right treadle all the
way
down (and then taking the foot off the treadile),
the
rear
driving belt (high speed) is shifted from the
rear
loose pulley to
the
rear
driving pulley, thus bringing
the
machine
to
full
speed.
At this
stage,
the front driving
belt
is shifted to the
rear
loose pulley,
and
locking
lever S
arrests
lifting lever L so
that
the work clamp cannot be
raised
accidentally while sewing (Photo 18).
The
two-belt
drive
ensures
that
the
machiiie
is
accelerated
to
top
speed
not only faster but also at a lesser
power
consumption and that
belt
slippage and excessive
wear
are
greatly
eliminated.
13.
Stopping
the
Machine
After completion of the buttonhole the machine stops automatically. Shortly
before making the bartacking stitches, the machine is automatically slowed
down to half speed in order to effect a soft impact of the buttonhole knife.
Another
advantage
of this reduction in speed is the fact that the momentum
of
the
machine
is much
less
and
can
be
easily
absorbed
by
the
double
buffer springs when the machine stops instantaneously.
This
will
greatly
eliminate the
breakage
of
parts
and
trouble in the machine.
14.
Stopping
the
Machine
While
Sewing
Instant stopping of the
machine
during
the sewing cycle is particularly
Important when thread jams
in
the hook race or the needle breaks
ios,
otherwise, the fabric or the hook would be damaged by fragments of the
needle or its
stump.
This
is especially essential with delicate fabrics
which
would be easily
damaged
by punctures of the needle stub.
The machine is stopped by quickly pressing down hand stop lever 15 twice
(Photo
19).
In
case
the
bobbin
runs
out
of
thread
or
the
thread
breaks
while
sewing
the buttonhole, it is possible to let the machine complete the needle cycle
until it is in starting position again. However, the cutting of the knife
at
the close of the needle cycle must be
prevented
in any case.
19