the front-end poly bushes and slide them in followed by the metal sleeve and do the same with the
smaller rear bushes. You can now grease the rear radius arm mount pins on the rear end of the
chassis and slide on the radius arms, locate with washer, castle nut and split pin.
3. Then install the rear dampers (033) with 1/2”UNF bolts with flat washers and Nylocs from the top
chassis mount to the centre of the three radius arm holes. The top mount may need washers or small
shims to centralise before tightening both fixings.
4. Bring the final drive differential assembly to the rear of the chassis with the prop shaft mounting
flange pointing upwards and the long brackets facing forwards. Locate these brackets with the rear
radius arm rear bushes in the centre and secure with 7/16”UNF bolts washers and Nylocs.
5. Before rotating the final drive into position prepare the two tie bars (037) by loosely bolting them to
the shorter brackets from the rear differential tubes that currently face backwards with 7/16” UNF
bolts washers and Nylocs. Fit the two rose joints with lock nuts and star washers before screwing
half way into the tie bars leaving loose at this point for adjustment.
6. Prepare the Panhard rod (038) by fitting its rose joint with lock nut and star washer on one end,
lubricate and press in the poly bush in the other end followed by the metal sleeve. Copper grease the
pin on the right hand side differential tube that currently points upwards and slide on the Panhard rod
with the centre hole of the rod lying over the prop shaft flange. Loosely fit the large flat washer and
9/16” UNF Nyloc.
7. You are now ready to rotate the differential into position and secure with the 1/2” x 2 1/2” UNF bolts
with lock washers through the rose joints into the chassis. Depending on the type of rose joint a
spacer may be required to hold the rose joint and lock nut away from the chassis as you don’t want it
to rub when moving up and down. Check the tie bars are holding the differential prop shaft flange as
vertical as possible. If necessary release the rose joints adjust and refit before tightening both ends.
8. The Panhard rod is there to hold the differential central to the chassis. Make sure it is central before
adjusting the rose joint and securing with 1/2”x 2”UNF bolt (in whichever hole holds it most central
over the differential), washers and Nylocs and tighten both ends and Nylocs.
9. Assemble the rear hubs (030) to the rear brake discs (032) with the 7/16”UNF bolts supplied. Pass
the bolts through the rear of the discs then locate the hub followed by flat washers and metal lock
nuts. This can now be installed on the final drive. With the key installed on the drive shaft (these
may need adjusting with a file to be a snug but not over tight fit) grease the shaft before sliding on
the rear hub and attach with washer castle nut and split pin.
10. Clean the transit grease off the brake discs before fitting on the rear brake calipers (031) with the
cross drilled 7/16” UNF bolts supplied. Using an extra washer as a shim if necessary equal on both
bolts to centralise the calliper. Lightly copper grease the rear non-friction side of the rear brake pads
before sliding into the brake caliper and secure with lock plate or pins provided.
11. Attach the rear handbrake calipers above the foot brake calipers with the supplied pins and “U”
springs, tighten the adjusting screw which passes through the top of the caliper until the disc is tight
to turn. Then back of a little until it can turn freely, line up the slot and secure with split pin.
12. Once finished the four corners of the suspension and hubs should be thoroughly greased via the
grease nipples fitted: one on each front hub and one on each end of the differential tubes for the rear
wheel bearings.
5 Brakes, Clutch and Pedal box
IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE
The components of the hydraulic circuit have a mix of metric and imperial connections. The brake master
cylinder use’s metric M10 and M12. Most other parts of the system use imperial 3/8”UNF.Take care to
ensure correct fittings are used as incorrect ones may seem to fit but will not seal properly and could strip
the thread. Unions are generally gold in colour for metric and silver for imperial. Make sure unions are
tight enough to seal but not over tightened. A torque wrench is not suitable here but a torque of about 15 ft
lb is appropriate.
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