11 Fitting body centre section
Parts required 141,039(R1),089
1. Before any parts can be fitted that overhang the chassis the body centre section needs to be fitted.
Prepare for this by drilling holes or snipping the lower inner corners of the driver’s side front and
middle alloy panels to allow the brake and fuel lines to pass through. With the pipes shaped to fit the
car these could now be laid into the body and temporarily taped out of the way until the body is
secured.
2. It is sensible to have two people to fit the body. With one person on either side behind the chassis
lift the body and centre it over the chassis. It may need slightly stretching to enable it to pass over
the chassis. Locate the bodywork section on top of the chassis mounting flange and locate with the
5/16”UNF bolts along these rails, (the front and rear holes will be drilled in the body the others may
need drilling). There are also two bolts each side to connect the body tub to the chassis on the upright
just behind the front wheels. Next you need to secure the front and middle bulkheads with the M5
bolts and nuts provided. These are across the bulkhead behind the engine and inside the body on the
two uprights. The right hand middle bulkhead centre screw can be left out as this position can be
enlarged and used as the main body earth from the battery.
12 Ancillaries (post body centre fitting)
To be fitted after installation of the centre body section.
12.1 Rear brake pipe and bleeding brakes
1. It is helpful to have an assistant to sit in the car to pump the brake pedal when the brakes are being
bled and adjusted.
2. With the body centre in place the front to rear brake pipe and fuel pipe can now be connected and
secured, it is easier to have had these shaped and laid in the body before the body is laid on the
chassis.
3. The front to rear brake pipe R1 connects on the rear flexi hose, which locates in the rear bulkhead
and the front male end connects into the master cylinder. Once the pipe is connected and secured to
the chassis with “P” clips you are ready to bleed to air out of the system.
4. Gather together a clean glass jar and a length of clear tubing that fits snugly on the bleed nipples
(you may need a different size on front to rear). Fill the master cylinder with new brake fluid, (never
use old brake fluid or fluid out of a container which has been open a long time as these could have
absorbed moisture which will affect the braking efficiency).
5. Always start with the brake furthest from the master cylinder and work your way closer.
6. Slide the clear tube over the rear left bleed nipple and lay the other end in the jar with its end
submerged in clean brake fluid.
7. Open the bleed nipple before quickly pressing down on the foot pedal. After slowly releasing the
pedal pause for a moment to allow the brake fluid to recoup in the master cylinder before pressing
down again. This will force the air out of the braking system. Continue until no more air bubbles
exit the pipe (not forgetting to keep checking the fluid level in the master cylinder). Tighten the
bleed nipple with the pedal depressed. If you have an assistant you should close the bleed nipple on
every release of the pedal to help keep air out of the system.
8. Move on to the next furthest brake caliper and repeat until all brake calipers are done. If the pedal
feels spongy after this try going round all four brakes once again to find the trapped air.
12.2 Fuel pipe, fuel filter and regulator
Parts required 089,091
1. With the centre body section fitted you can now connect up the front to rear metal fuel pipe. The
rear end of the pipe should protrude through the bulkhead above the brake line with enough length to
connect on the braided hose to the fuel pump. This can now be connected with jubilee clips and the
To Next Page
Loading...