4 Building up the Chassis plus Suspension and Final drive
4.1 Chassis kit
Parts required 001
A Main tubular chassis
B Front frame C/W lower fixings 2 of 5/16” UNF x 1”
Upper fixings C/W inner Wishbone mounts
C Rear frame C/W Lower fixings 2 of 7/16” UNF x 3”
Upper fixings 2 of 3/8” UNF x1”
This is fitted after the rear suspension and final drive
D+E Engine bay brace
C/W 8 of 5/16” UNF x 1”
This is fitted after installation of the engine and gearbox assembly
F Gearbox bracket C/W 4 of 3/8” UNF x 1”
This can be fitted anytime before installation of the engine and gearbox assembly
G Belly pans (9 pieces)
4.2 Fitting belly pans
1. To begin assembly start with the chassis upside down and temporarily mount the rear frame to the
chassis.
2. Lay on the rear frame belly pan and check for fit. Trim if necessary and clamp in place (always use
something to protect the panels and chassis from clamping damage). The belly pan should be the
same size as the rear frame but long enough to reach the rear chassis rail.
3. Mark out equal positions on the rear belly pan down the sides and across the rear before drilling belly
pan and rear frame to suit your chosen fixing method (this panel can be riveted and bonded on as it
does not need to be removable).
4. Remove panel to clear away any swarf before applying bonding medium if required and laying on
and fixing the belly pan to the rear frame.
5. In the centre of the rear belly pan is an access panel to the differential and handbrake; this needs to
be removable and we recommend fixing this using Rivnuts. These are basically nuts riveted into the
belly pan allowing setscrews to be easily fitted and removed without loss of thread.
6. Next, lay on the centre panel (wide end towards the front, all belly pan swages point down away
from the chassis) and line up the edges to run along the edges of the ‘C’ section chassis rails. The
holes in this can then be marked through into the chassis.
7. Remove the panel before drilling to accept your chosen fixing method (again we would recommend
Rivnuts as this panel needs to be removable).
8. Once the fixing holes are drilled and Rivnuts fitted, drill clearance holes in the panel to the correct
size for the fixings you’re using before returning the panel and securing on one side only.
9. Check the other side holes all line up before marking the position of the centre tube cross member on
the centre panel and the body mounting flange. Take the side panel for the side not fixed down and
slide it under the centre panel making sure the returned edge is against the chassis rail (the left hand
panel will need trimming around the handbrake cable bracket).
10. Align the panel with the body-mounting flange.
11. The holes in the flange can be marked on the panel ready to drill to 8mm and the holes down the
centre rails can be marked to match the positions in the centre panel. Also mark and pilot drill two
equally spaced positions through the panel into the tubular cross member before removing the panel
drilling the outer mount holes and drilling the tubular chassis and fitting with Rivnuts. Repeat with
second side.
12. Refit the outer panels and lie on the front triangular belly pan sections (these have a step to overlap
the main belly pan sections), and fix in the same way as the main sections. These five panels can
then be removed for safe storage during the build and the rear frame removed until later in the build.
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